Category Archives: Wine

August 15, 2012

The Mystery of Sauvignon Blanc

By Lyle W. Norton

 

Forever in the shadow of the perennial homecoming queen, Chardonnay, the varietal that some people call sauvignon blanc has struggled with identity issues even after Robert Mondavi changed its name to Fume’Blanc decades ago, intending to boost its image and its sales.  Adding to its mysterious persona, consumers are never certain what sauvignon blanc will show up. As with many varietals, it is heavily influenced by the soils within the region it is grown and how it is made. 

Originating from Bordeaux in France, Sauvignon Blanc also thrives in Australia, South America, New Zealand and South Africa, each with diverse soil.  The famous wines from the Pouilly Fume’ and Sancerre appellations in the Loire Valley, southwest of Paris and the Sauternes region of Bordeaux use the sauvignon blanc grape exclusively.  Regionally, it excels in western Australia, the Marlborough appellation of New Zealand and in California, primarily Sonoma County, Napa Valley and the Santa Ynez Valley, north of Santa Barbara.

The two personas of sauvignon blanc are nearly polar opposites of each other.  There is the grassy, “herbaceous”, more intense version opposed to the rich, barrel-fermented rendition full of creamy melon and tropical fruits.  Both enjoy the passion of many wine consumers. Producers in many of the global appellations have found that blending sauvignon blanc with the heavily textured semillon grape creates a more full-bodied, rich wine. An excellent example of this blend is the St. Supery Estate “Virtu” Napa Valley ($30) featuring half from each varietal.  With two-thirds of the grapes fermented in French oak, the remainder in stainless steel, “Virtu” combines crisp aromas and flavors of lemon zest and grapefruit with the creamy, toasted influences. The 2010 vintage is sold out at the winery, but most likely can be found in some outlets or on the Internet.

The one irrefutable capacity of sauvignon blanc is that it has always been one of the most food-friendly wines available. More specifically,

St. Supery “Virtu” Sauvignon Blanc-Semillion blend

sauvignon/fume’ blanc, unlike chardonnay, can easily stand up to spicy and more flavorful savory foods.  Powerful flavors like cilantro, dill, garlic, lemon, lime, red bell peppers and others are often suitably paired with the versatile grape.

Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc “Goosebury”

Sauvignon/Fume’ Blanc is also very characteristic to its region. Soils, the use (and non-use) of oak and aging produces very different traits within the French regions, both differing from California and New Zealand.  If you are serious about this varietal, I highly recommend the self-proclaimed, “Fiddlehead Experiment.”  Kathy Joseph, owner/winemaker of Fiddlehead Cellars in Santa Barbara County can thank me later for the plug, but this is actually the means by which I began to explore the potential of sauvignon blanc.

Fiddlehead Cellars has been striving to produce excellent Pinot Noir and expand the capabilities of sauvignon blanc for over a decade.  They produce three very different releases of the latter, describing them as indicative of those from the Loire Valley, Bordeaux and New Zealand, all from vineyards in eastern Santa Ynez Valley.

The Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara AVA, known for warm days and cool nights, has become the home of great sauvignon blanc vineyards, including the “Vogelzang Vineyard” that supply grapes for several labels, including the Fiddlehead Cellars trio.  The Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc “Happy Canyon” ($25), named for the appellation, is a full-bodied, rich wine with nice, crisp tropical fruit aroma and flavors, indicative of those produced in the Loire Valley.  The use of stainless steel, new and neutral French oak creates a wonderful balance of crispness with silky texture.

In Bordeaux-style, the Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc “Hunnysuckle” ($34)is that richly textured wine that one can enjoy with or without food.  Aged for ten months in the barrel before additional years in the bottle, patience is rewarded with elegance and grace.

Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc “Hunnysuckle”

One of my best food pairing experiences ever involved sea scallops in a creamy Meyer lemon sauce with a glass of Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc “Goosebury” ($34), representative of those produced in New Zealand.  With no oak or any other influences, the “Goosebury”  is crisp, herbal with mineral hints and, in my view, one of two California sauvignon blanc that I would select when choosing a wine to pair with a special meal. The “Fiddlehead Experiment” allows one to explore the world of this agile grape and solve many of its mysteries.

Aside from the “Goosebury”, my favorite food wine is the renowned Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley ($32), arguably the finest produced in California.  I often reference this wine as it annually receives accolades, appearing on Top 100 lists from many periodicals.  Indicative of low-yield wines, this sauvignon blanc is fruit-forward in brilliantly balanced richness

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley

with aromas of apples, layered flavors of stone and tropical fruits and a nice acidity on the finish.

The following are my additional recommended sauvignon blanc varietal wines, varying in price range, most available locally, all of high quality from various regions of the world.

Lincourt Sauvignon Blanc Santa Ynez Valley ($18): Lincourt is a small boutique winery near the small village of Los Olivos, outside of Solvang.  Non-herbal, there are nice hints of tropical fruit and melon throughout. This wine is often reviewed as an excellent value wine, but may be difficult to find outside of the winery.

Lincourt Sauvignon Blanc Santa Ynez Valley

Ferrari-Carano Fume’Blanc ($13):  A popular release from Sonoma County for decades, a nice balance of citrus and tropical fruit, balanced and multi-layered.

 

Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough NZ ($15):  Very accessible, processing the typical minerality from New Zealand and nice citrus flavors.

 

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough NZ ($15): Another popular wine from New Zealand, the KC expresses intense bouquet with tropical fruit, melon flavors and nice acidity on the finish.

 

Babcock Sauvignon Blanc ($20): From the Santa Rita Hills AVA in Santa Barbara County and a reliable winemaker, this wine is rich with oak

Babcock Sauvignon Blanc

influences and soft melon flavors. A good value for a wine that is not always available locally.

 

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc ($27)One of the most highly rated Sauvignon Blanc in the world for the past few years, it was rewarded 92 pts. from Wine Spectator, ranked only below Merry Edwards among the varietal.  Very crisp and fruit forward, the flavors are balanced and abundant.

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough NZ

Hopefully, we have unveiled some of the mysteries and myths about sauvignon blanc.  For many, it is a softer, mellower alternative to chardonnay, for others a great food friendly wine.  However, as with all the world’s finest varietals, further exploration of sauvignon blanc reveals the rich diversity and distinctive characteristics of a global powerhouse.

 

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July 18, 2012

The Summer of Chardonnay

By Lyle W. Norton


 

The summer months always evoke discussion of nice white wines that are more refreshing in the heat. In the forefront of any such discussion is chardonnay, arguably the most popular grape in the world.  It thrives in Burgundy, France; Australia, northern and southern California and even New York State because it can be distinctive and unique, heavily influenced by soil, climate and many post harvest techniques.  The grape responds to stainless steel or oak, limestone or marl, cool or warm climates and 0% to 100% malolactic fermentation, a technique that significantly softens the wine by converting the tart malic acid into lactic acid,  producing those more full-bodied, buttery wine flavors.

Foley Estate Rancho Santa Rosa Vineyard

Thriving earlier in the Napa Valley, today’s chardonnay vineyards can be found from Mendocino to Santa Barbara County, gradually shifting to more coastal appellations like Santa Lucia Highlands, Santa Rita Hills and the Sonoma Coast.  In fact, Sonoma County past vintages rank the highest in California and, with the Burgundy region of France, produces the world’s best chardonnay.  Over the past few years, it has been difficult to find a bad one from the Napa Valley or Sonoma regions.

Normally a fan of the soft, buttery, oak-driven, lactic-laden California chardonnay, I have begun to appreciate the minerality in Burgundian wines, so influenced by the nature of the soil.

The following is a list of recent vintage chardonnay that I have enjoyed during the past year, representing a variety of price points, regions and oak influence. I did not designate a certain vintage because these wines are consistently good.

Chalone Vineyard Chardonnay Monterey County ($12). Chalone Vineyards have produced Burgundian-style wines for decades, contributing a chardonnay for the 1976

Chalone Chardonnay Monterey County

Paris Tasting.  Although they produce very good single-vineyard estate chardonnay at higher prices, the Monterey County designate is a complex wine that is accessible locally.

Merryvale Starmont Chardonnay ($18).  From the cooler climates in the Napa Valley, this amply available wine consists of grapes aged in both stainless steel and oak with partial malolactic fermentation.  The result is one of the most full-bodied, creamy chardonnay available under $20 anywhere. Nice citrus is engulfed with rich, nutty flavors with a nice minerality on the finish.

Morgan “Mettalico” Un-Oaked Chardonnay ($21).  Morgan Vineyards produce good quality pinot noir, chardonnay and other varietals from the Santa Lucia Highlands.  The “Metallico” favors those with no regard for oak or malolactic fermentation.  It is a very crisp, food-friendly wine with a nice

Morgan “Metallico” Chardonnay

acidity and stone fruit flavors.

Melville Estate Chardonnay Clone 76 “Inox” ($36).  Located on East Highway 246 on the way to Lompoc, Melville creates nice pinot noir and cool-climate chardonnay in the Santa Rita Hills.  “Inox” is the French word for stainless steel, foreshadowing a wine void of oak and any softening of its crispness.

Melville “Clone 76 Inox” Chardonnay

Cold temperatures are integrated into the fermentation process, protecting all the malic acid from harm.  Aromas and flavors of lemon, lime, pineapple, apple and honeysuckle assure us that it is not void of taste.

Rombauer Carneros Chardonnay ($32).  Familiar with this wine for several years, I was recently surprised to see a bottle in the “frig” at a “fork and cork” rental home and quickly drafted it to pair with scallops and smoked salmon cakes.  Complex aromas and flavors of peach, melon, citrus and vanilla make this wine, consistently, a great pair with food and a top value within this price range. It is often available locally.

Fort Ross Vineyard Chardonnay Sonoma Coast ($32). From the Sonoma coast, this wine embellishes both the crispness and rich opulence that chardonnay can express. Combining pineapple with butterscotch and vanilla in a balanced way is the main reason it found itself among Wine Enthusiasts Top 100 wines of 2011 with a 92 pt. rating.

Rombauer Chardonnay Carneros

 

Demetria Winery “Eighteen” Chardonnay ($45). My first encounter with Demetria Winery in the Santa Ynez Valley was through this wine at a tasting last year.  The “Eighteen” stood out among the others.  Aged 18 months in French oak, it combines wonderful stone fruits aromas and flavors that are rich and heavy-on-the-tongue.  With only 200 cases produced, one will not find this wine outside of the winery.

Demetria “Eighteen” Chardonnay

 

Foley Estate “Barrel Select” Chardonnay ($50). This wine is simply my favorite California chardonnay from a winery that produces many. To retain some acidity, 25% of the grapes are void of malolactic fermentation.  The best barrels are combined and aged another 21 months in oak.  The result is consistently lush citrus aromas and flavors balanced with rich vanilla and toasted nuts.  A pass through the area always warrants a stop for “Barrel Select”.

 

Mt Eden Vineyards Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains ($55).Any discussion of good white wine always includes Mt. Eden’s classic California chardonnay from the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation that produces many. A bulk of the aging is with new French oak creating a creamy, heavy-on-the-tongue wine with a perfect balance of citrus, spice and toasted nuts. It is always ranked among the best.

Foley Estate “Barrel Select” Chardonnay

 

Louis Latour Puligny-Montrachet ler Cru ($55). Discovered at a tasting, this wine, from one of Burgundy’s finest appellations, has a nice earthy/mineral quality combining some citrus with melon flavors and a very long finish.  Grand Cru from this area can age up to 10 years, becoming supple, less acidic along the way.  Available at Monopole in Pasadena.

Louis Latour Puligny-Montrachet “Les Truffieres”

These are my recommendations although what I know about this wine is what I don’t know. Having the opportunity to taste good chardonnay from many regions

within California and abroad, I am always reminded of the complexity of the wine and it’s ability to enhance food.  Any one of these wines and a myriad of others were designed to augment shellfish, sea bass, game hens and even veal.  The major player of the United State victory in the 1976 Paris Tasting, California chardonnay has never sat on its laurels.

 

 

 

 

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February 8, 2012

North Napa Wineries(And Great Food!)

By Lyle W. Norton

Our annual New Year’s tradition in Napa Valley began by responding to a “Living Social” offer for a bed and breakfast/spa package in Calistoga, a small town in the north valley that served as a regular get-away decades ago.  Friends and fellow “foodies”, Rosemary and David, carefully selected some restaurants of recent note and we were off for a mini “fork and cork” experience that began with lunch at Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen.

Chef Cindy Pawlcyn, beginning 25 years ago with the infamous Mustard’s Grill on Highway 29, has developed three restaurants in the Napa Valley, including Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen, located in a quaint historic building along the railroad tracks, east of St. Helena.   The charming old supper club atmosphere is enhanced by a very unique menu that includes such dished as the “Chinatown Duck Burger with house made shiitake mushroom ketchup and French fries” and “Adult Grilled Cheese, mostly vegetarian NO CRYBABIES! and polenta fries”.    They feature a very diverse choice of fine wines by the glass and bottle, micro brews like “Death and Taxes” Black Lager from Moonlight Brewing and creative cocktails such as their “Thai-gin-tini”.  What a wonderful start to an entire weekend of gourmet experiences.

The town of Calistoga is historically known for its spas that feature naturally hot mineral and volcanic ash baths.  Over the past decades, restaurants, B&B inns, elegant spa hotels and boutique wineries have become mainstays of the local landscape.  Our first wine tasting stop, the Vincent Arroyo Winery, fits the local persona with wines as unpretentious as they are bold and supple.

Entering the barn at Vincent Arroyo Winery, after an official greeting by black lab, JJ and chocolate lab, Bodega, their tails wagging, you are reminded that this is a small working winery and, amid a relaxed environment are friendly staff that are very serious about their wine.  We tasted several current releases, beginning with the 2010 Vincent Arroyo Chardonnay ($24), two-thirds fermented in stainless steel tanks and the rest in French oak barrels resulting in a very crisp flavors with hints of vanilla.

JJ - Vincent Arroyo greeter

Tempranillo has become a very trendy varietal and seems to be expanding in very diverse regions throughout the state.  Of Spanish origin, the grape typically generates nice, heavy fruit

Vincent Arroyo Tempranillo 2009

bouquet and flavors and, like Cabernet Sauvignon, enjoys the company of oak.  The 2009 Vincent Arroyo Tempranillo ($28) delivers all the features of a dry Cabernet, with ripening fruit flavors at a relatively moderate price.   Moving to blends of French descent, the 2008 Vincent Arroyo “Nameless” ($30)is a left-bank Bordeaux blend of merlot (62%) and cabernet

Bodega - unofficial host

sauvignon (38%) that is well-balanced, semi-tart and great to pair with food.

Another varietal expanding throughout California wine regions is petite sirah, a dark inky-colored grape with rich texture and very soft, accessible flavors.  Of the three produced, we enjoyed the 2009 Vincent Arroyo Petite Sirah Rattlesnake Acres, from a vineyard at the winery entrance.  Exhibiting all the traditional qualities of the varietal, the flavors were very forward with a nice lingering finish.   The 2008 Vincent Arroyo Petite Sirah “Winemaker’s

Vincent Arroyo Petite Sirah "Rattlesnake Acres" Vineyard

Reserve” ($50) aged three years, is still young, but has a structure that will continue to mature.

The flagship wine of our day was the 2009 Vincent Arroyo “Entrada”  ($65), an unusual blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon and petite sirah with bold flavors and near perfect balance that is drinking well now, but will continue to develop structurally with time.

For our first dinner, Rosemary had reserved a table at the Michelin-starred SolBar, on the Solage Spa grounds, just east of town.  We are pleased that she did.   Upon entering SolBar, one is immediately immersed in an understated elegance that is inviting for fine food and wine.  It is a modern, sleek, but homey room where everything seems to work the way it should.  Carrying a bottle of Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Garys’ Vineyard 2009, we were definitely in the mood to sit, relax, select and enjoy.   One look at my wine and our young female waiter suggested that we decant it right away.  That’s apparently what happens at a Michelin-starred restaurant.   The pinot noir opened up and paired perfectly with the wild, sustainable sea bass as well as the beef confit salad. The SolBar experience was my best in recent memory.

SolBar restaurant

Laura Zahtila Swanton’s story is a somewhat familiar one, one that has a happy ending.  Working at Cisco Systems in Silicon Valley, she purchased the property of her estate vineyard and winery, relied on her technological skills and set out to produce limited-quantity boutique wines along the Silverado Trail in the Napa Valley.  Coming upon her property, with no prior knowledge of her wines, we decided to make the short trek to a quaint tasting shack only to be pleasantly surprised by many of her recent releases.

Laura Zahtila "Odone Vineyard" Zinfandel 2005

We began with a comparative tasting between the 2004 and 2005 vintages of the Laura Zahtila Vineyards Zinfandel “Odone Vineyard” ($40), revealing vast differences in flavor and structure.  The 2004 was well structured, soft and a bit tannic while the 2005 was much more fruit forward with nice vanilla and cinnamon hints.  Both wines need decanting for a few hours.  Decanting is also recommended for the Laura Zahtila Vineyards Zinfandel “Oat Hill

Laura Zahtila "Oat Hill" Zinfandel 2008

Vineyard” 2007 ($45), much more jammy with plum and blackberry.

This is the Napa Valley.  While winemakers are experiencing with different varietals and terrior, cabernet sauvignon is still king.  As we were tasting the Laura Zahtila Cabernet Sauvignon “Barlow Vineyard” 2007 ($50), a nicely structured wine aged in 40% new French oak, our hostess opened a library bottle of Laura Zahtila Cabernet Sauvignon “Beckstoffer and Georges III Vineyards” 2002 ($60) from two famed valley vineyards.  This wine expressed a very unique bouquet and an earthiness indicative of the fine wines produced from these Rutherford vineyards

Our final carefully selected culinary destination was “Farmstead”, the gourmet, comfort-food restaurant by Long Meadow Farms, a 650-acre ranch above the valley that produces grass fed beef, eggs, heirloom fruit and vegetables, olive oil, all in a sustainable, organic and responsible way.  Having supplied top American chefs with fresh products, they developed “Farmstead”, south of St. Helena to showcase their mission of healthy, responsible food that tastes great.  Dishes like “Brick-cooked chicken with savory spinach with rancho gordo beans and salsa verde” and “Salad of kalcinato kale with chile pequin, lemon and toasted

Farmstead Restaurant in St. Helena

grana cheese” are rare recipes that are not duplicated anywhere else.

Our final tasting was at Summers Estate Wines, a small boutique winery, north of Calistoga, producing 8-9,000  multi-varietal cases per year, mostly from their 28-acre estate vineyards.  My first contact with Summers wines was a glass of their “La Nude” Unoaked Chardonnay 2008, recommended as being crisp, but with softer flavors.  The Summers Estate 2008 Reserve Chardonnay ($22), dissimilar from others we had recently tasted, was aged for 10 months in French oak, infusing a rich vanilla essence with nice orchard fruit flavors.

Among other fine attributes, Calistoga apparently has good “terrior” for the rare, once abundant Charbono grape that suffered from an identity crisis in its early California years.  Story

Summers Estate Wines Charbono 2009

has it that Italian immigrants brought the grape here during the Gold Rush, thinking it was barbera.  Although widely grown throughout the Napa Valley in those early years, Summers reports that their 80-acres are the only Charbono vines left on the planet.  The Summers Estate Charbono, Villa Andrianna Vineyard 2008 ($28), aside from deep ruby color, has rich berry and spice flavors that pairs well with pasta and tomato-based sauces.

Zinfandel is a varietal that generally thrives on mature vines that have adapted, over the years, to their soil conditions.  The Summers Estate Zinfandel “Four Acre Zin” ($34) is one of those wines, made from 40-50 year old vines, creating a wine that effectively balances the sumptuous flavors of strawberry jam and the spiciness of cracked pepper.  Our last wine, the Summers Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($48) expressed multi-layered flavors and nice texture.  Unlike the Charbono and jammy Zinfandel, this wine must compete with the multitude of other Cabernets that have made the Napa valley famous.

Synonymous with renowned names like Mondavi, Stag’s Leap and Spottswode, the Napa Valley has also become, over the past 30 years, a region that can still be accessible to small production, boutique winemakers who rarely get the ratings and major press, but nonetheless are serious and talented in their craft.  These and other north valley wineries are worth exploring, using Calistoga as a home base, whether in a local B&B such as the Calistoga Wine Way Inn or the Mount View Hotelon Lincoln Avenue.  Memorable food, good

Calistoga's "The Wine Way Inn"

wine, spa treatments and other outdoor activities are at your fingertips in the north Napa Valley.

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December 13, 2011

Wine Spectator’s Top Wines of 2011

By Lyle W. Norton


"Wine of the Year"

As someone who enjoys lists, Wine Spectator magazine’s annual release of the year’s most exciting wines is highly anticipated, providing a plethora of information on current trends and vintages, both domestic and throughout the world.  Stories boasting the quality recent vintages for Sonoma County, Napa Valley, France’s Rhone Valley and Tuscany played out through their dominance on the list, generating nearly half the wines.  The prestigious top ten wines included two pinots from Sonoma, an exciting new Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon, three French and two Italian blends.

No stranger to the list during the past decade, the Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2009 ($52), a wine for which I am very familiar, was the WS “2011 Wine of the Year”. The story of the emergence of Dan Kosta and Michael Browne as premier producers of pinot noir is not one of pedigree or years of apprentice in the region of Burgundy.  It’s simply the story of a couple of guys with nothing but desire, who plunged into winemaking and learned as they went along to ultimately discover their identity in the depth, richness and elegance usually distinguished in the great Burgundian treasures.

In 2011, Kosta Browne produced 11 pinots, most exclusively from esteemed vineyards such as Amber Ridge and Kanzler in the Russian River Valley. With all the leading single-vineyard releases, ironically, the top wine combines grapes from three different vineyards near the northern Sonoma coast and is, at $52, one of their most moderately priced wines. Not new to the WS list, this is the third vintage to reach the top ten since 2006.  Although my two bottles will remain in rest for at least another year, I have enjoyed the last five vintages and found extraordinary richness, “heavy on the tongue” creamy texture, concentrated, candied flavors and long finishes with each.  For those of us that follow California Pinot Noir, this 2011 coronation for Kosta Browne was only at matter of time.

#5 Dehlinger Pinot Noir RRV 2008

There were eight representatives from the pinot noir varietal, five from Sonoma and three from Oregon. Senior editor James Laube foreshadowed great results when he named the 2009 vintage California, especially Sonoma County pinot noir as the decade’s best; possibly the best ever.  The top ranked of the varietal all had ratings of 94-95 pts and all cost about $50, including the Dehlinger Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2008 (95pt/$50) from a well-respected Sonoma winemaker with a reputation for producing very fruit forward, graceful wines.  The Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Grace Vineyard 2008, from the Willamette Valley in Oregon was the highest rated at 97 pts, but was ranked #85 because the $125 price made it much less exciting.  I was pleased to see the Rex Hill Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2009 (93pt/#38) on the list. They are very serious, hard-working winemakers and have released many nice pinots over the years.

The US contributed 41 wines, 28 from California, followed by exceptional vintages from Tuscany and France’s Rhone Valley, regions also rewarded with good recent vintages.  Outside of California, Washington state, continuing to emerge as a region of good quality and diversity, landed seven wines, Oregon four, New York state and New Mexico, one each.

If one commenced to produce a high quality, moderately priced sparkling wine, I doubt that they would seek to plant vineyards in

#43 Gruet Blanc de Noirs New Mexico

Truth or Consequences, New Mexico.  The Gruet family has planted pinot noir and chardonnay grapes at very high altitudes to bring into being the Gruet Blanc de Noirs New Mexico, scoring 90 pts from WS and retailing for $14 a bottle.  This sparkling release has generated enough curiosity to be ranked as the 43rd most exciting wine.  With 20,000 cases made, it shouldn’t be too hard to find.

Once again, the Paso Robles region had respectable representation on the list, with the 2010 “Wine of the Year,” Saxum James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles 2008 (97pt/$75), returning at #52.  Although it had a similar “off the charts” rating with a slight price increase, it is difficult, if not nearly impossible, to generate that much excitement for more than one year.  Known for sourcing grapes to other winemakers, the 126-acre Denner Vineyard produced the Syrah grapes for the Denner “The Dirt Worshipper” Paso Robles 2008 (97pt/$45), the highest ranked Paso wine at #11.  At this point, it is intriguing, but scarce.

Tablas Creek, a winery whose Rhone blends like the “Espirit De Beaucastel” are regulars on the list, placed the Tablas Creek Cotes de Tablas Paso Robles 2009 (93pt/$30) in the 37th spot. This Grenache-dominant blend with Syrah, counoise and mourvedre is fermented and aged in the French style and has the consistent quality expected from a pioneer of California Rhones.  Cheers for the Grenache grape; a dominant component of 10 wines on the list, four from the Golden State and six from the Rhone Valley.

Aside from the Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude 2009 (94pt/$55), a reprise of the winemaker’s 2001 top ten appearance, the most interesting and highest ranked French wine was the Domaine Huet Vouray Moelleux Clos du Bourg Premiere Trie 2009 (96pt/$69),a chenin blanc from the Loire Valley, that used wet weather-induced Botrytis rot to help

#9 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude 2009

create, as experts claim, a beautifully balanced, fruit forward white wine.

Washington State repeated an excellent 2010 performance with the inclusion of seven wines, all within the top 50. A nice balance of red wines including three Cabernet Sauvignon, two syrah and two Bordeaux blends illustrates the diversity of the great Pacific Northwest, also known for the production of Riesling.  The magazine placed the Baer “Ursa” Columbia Valley 2008 (95pt/$35), the winery’s signature merlot/cabernet franc blend, as #6, noting its consistent richness and clean flavors. In addition to the “Ursa”, wines like the Efeste Syrah Yakima Valley Jolie Bouche Boushey Vineyard 2008 (95pt/$36)have shaped Washington’s character in producing high quality at moderate prices. This syrah is very intriguing, but with only 385 cases made, it will be nearly impossible to find.

#6 Baer "Ursa" Columbia Valley Washington

There are some California wines that deserve specific mention.  Recently, I had an opportunity to enjoy a Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley 2009 (93pt/$30) paired with a wonderfully rich butternut squash soup with crème fraiche.  A recurrent member of the annual list, this is one of the best food white wines out there, always expressing layered flavors and a trademark long, rich finish.

I am partial to Santa Cruz Mountains wines, having grown up among them.  This is one reason it’s nice to witness the Mount Eden Vineyards Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains 2007 and 2008 (95pt/$55) being honored in the top 20 in back-to-back years.  Coastal influences, great low-yield vines from historical vineyards and oak influences make for a great wine in most years.

In 2010, the well-textured Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2006 was, at $40, one of the best values on the list.  Following early “buzz” upon its release, the Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley “Kathryn Hall” 2008 (96pt/$90), named for the co-founder, was designated as the #2 wine in 2011.  I had the opportunity to taste the 2007 vintage and, although a bit pricy, it is definitely a collectible if it can be found.

#4 Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino 2006

Tuscany contributed half of the Italian wines, most notably a classic Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino 2006 (96pt/$50), aged four years before release.  This wine may be available at K&L Wines/Hollywood in the near future.  With yet another example of Portugals’s port producers branching out to other reds, the Quinta Do Vallado Touriga Nacional Douro 2008 (95pt/$55), designated in the #7 spot, is a rare single-varietal (touriga nacional) wine from the north’s Douro region.

Another significant part of each year’s top wines list is who is not represented.  After resurgence the last few years, Germany listed only one Riesling and regulars, Australia and Bordeaux just two wines each. The safe bets among 2011 releases will come from Sonoma County, Tuscany, Washington State and the southern Rhone Valley.

The 2011 list clearly illustrates California’s prominence in the production of great wine.  With each new year, winemakers will monitor the weather and the soils as they care for their vines.  However, it is certain that the California “terrior” and passionate vintners will continue to prevail to create sensory wines in the grand appellations that serve them. Best to all in 2012!


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November 25, 2011

Monopole: Pasadena’s new wine store

By Lyle W. Norton


Pasadena’s “El Molino/Colorado Blvd.” Theater District has, for years, been one of our favorite southern California destinations, featuring such venues as the Pasadena Playhouse, Laemmle’s Playhouse 7 movie theater and a great bookstore.  However, with the Pasadena Playhouse in Chapter 11 bankruptcy and that we can now see great films locally at downtown Lancaster’s Laemmele Boulevard  Theater, could we find ourselves with no reason to go back?  Of course not.

The Pasadena Playhouse has re-structured its debt and is presenting their first full season in two years, restaurants like El Portal and Elements are still striving, Vroman’s Bookstore is continuously presenting authors and lectures and the new Monopole Wine at 21 South El Molino Avenue brings a whole new dynamic to the district.   We have walked by Monopole numerous times simplistically wondering how a retail wine shop could compete with wholesale and on-line establishments.  They seem to be doing well, but surely co-owners Peter Nelson and Hiro Tamaki have determined a strategy to set them apart.  It was time to discover just what that was and if it could make us steady customers.

Monopole (mon-uh-pohl), a French word meaning monopoly or, in wine terminology, sole vineyard ownership, was created to feature premium European wines and to educate through tastings and other fun events, an inviting business plan for someone who loves Pasadena and is ready to expand his knowledge beyond California and Pacific Northwest varietals.  Away from vast California vintages, it’s difficult to research value between the countless fine, century old wines from France, Spain, Italy and Germany.  Within a short time in the store, Peter directed me to good value and some unique norms of overseas wines.  Complimenting him on his selection of late 20th and early 21st Century vintages, Peter explained that they were all 2011 releases, cellared for nearly a decade before exposure to a consuming public.  California wineries may suggest further cellaring, but the release or “payday” usually happens within 24-36 months after grape harvest.

Another distinction of European wines comes from the label on the bottle.  While the prominent feature of a California label describes the varietal (usually a single grape), then the winery, region, vintage and, on occasion, a single vineyard, labels from France and surrounding countries tell a different story.

The most important and recognizable feature is the identification of the appellation or growing area.  In most cases, the grapes and percentages used are regulated by the Appellation d’Origine Controlee’ (AOC) and need not be identified. The next significant feature is the name of the individual winemaker or family that produces the wine, followed by the vineyard designation and finally, the bottler that may or may not be the same as the producer.  In rare cases, the varietals may be listed but typically identification of the appellation reveals that information.  Now, we have begun to understand European wines.

On this occasion, we taste a flight of wines from the Languedoc region, often disregarded as a stepchild to the mighty Southern Rhone wines from the Chateaunef-du-Pape, Vacqueyras and Gigondas appellations.  In April, we found that the city of Avignon, located due north of Provence, due south of the Rhone Valley and northwest of Languedoc-Roussillon, was ideal base for exploring southern France’s wine regions.  Although they all use basically the same varietals to produce their wines, Languedoc uses its “step-child” status to offer better value than the other, more famous appellations.  Today, we would learn more about the region and what Peter and Hiro consider good values.

First in a flight of good quality, moderately priced wines is the Chateau de la Liquiere Les Armandiers Faugeres Languedoc 2009 ($17), a blend of carignane, syrah, grenache and mourvedre that expresses texture and flavor found in blends with price points in the $25-35 range.  The nice bouquet foreshadowed soft, integrated flavors, accessible for most palates seeking a young blend requiring little to no analysis.  Unique to many wines from this region, red currant essence adds a subtle new dimension to the more traditional berry flavors of “straw” and “rasp”.  However, the key here is that none are overbearing, sending a subliminal message that it wants to be your friend.

Our second wine, a Domaine La Tour Penedesses “Montagne Noir” 2008 ($21) from the mountains in Faugeres in the Languedoc-Roussillon region offered a sweet, candied nose and nice bold flavors, although a bit tannic.  If you like fruit-forward wines at a moderate price, this would be a one to try.

Mourvedre is an old, very famous grape known for playing a major support role to grenache and syrah in crafting those great southern Rhone blends.  Here, with the Domaine Tempier Bandol Rouge 2008 ($39), arguably the best wine from Provence, Mourvedre is featured with support from Grenache, cinsault and carignan.  The result is rich, concentrated flavors of juicy dark plums and ripening currants with some oaky, smokey on the finish.  This wine presents a unique flavor profile, different, one to remember more clearly while sharing my new bottle that lies in wait.

A very nice surprise and learned moment came with an offer to try a 2009 Domaine Cheysson Chiroubles Beaujolais ($20), recently awarded 91 pts from Robert Parker, produced exclusively from gamay grapes in the Chiroubles appellation of the Beaujolais region of France.  Apparently, 2009 was a great year for Beaujolais and this particular wine can be simply categorized as soft and ripe.  More specifically defined, the complexity of ripened tart fruit, combined with soft raspberry finishing with significant smokey, woodsy hints would be appropriate.  At $20, this package is what we call a value.

Our tasting was part of the “Mad Music Thursdays” event that occurs each Thursday on El Molino between Green St. and Colorado Blvd. and within participating businesses like Monopole.  It generally features gourmet food trucks and special music presented by local businesses like Zona Rosa coffee and Elements restaurant. This evening a cellist accompanied and joined our tasting.  The event is now on hiatus until summer 2012, but special wine tastings, wine dinners and other “educational” events will continue at the wine shop.  Those wishing to be informed of future events can register at info@monopolewine.com.

The paths that led partners Peter Nelson and Hiro Tamaki to Monopole are diverse, bonded through passion and some fate.  Nelson came to southern California from the Pacific Northwest to complete law school, while Tamaki came to California from Japan to pursue graduate studies, first in San Francisco, finishing with an MBA from USC.  Throughout their early years, they independently developed and pursued a passion for wine, both passing the Certified SommelierExam of the Court of Master Sommeliers and achieving the Advanced Level of the Wine & Spirits Education Trust, where they met.  Very highbrow credentials for a couple of casual guys, chasing second careers, that know what they are talking about and truly enjoy sharing their wisdom

Hiro Tamaki and Peter Nelson

As it turns out, Monopole is a tremendous resource to increase one’s knowledge of wines from Bordeaux, Tuscany, Rioja, Rhone Valley and other great region of Europe.  One may find themselves in a captivating discussion and leave with that special new “find” from the old country.

One such discovery occurred when our friends were searching for a good Spanish wine to pair with tapas at Three Drunken Goats in Montrose.  Peter led them a 1998 Bodegas Riojanas Vina Albina Gran Reserva Rioja ($40) from the famous region between Barcelona and Bilbao, recently boasting a 92 pt rating from Stephen Tanzer.  Surprised to find such an early vintage available, we learned it was a new release, aged over a decade.  It has all the complexity of an aged wine; beautifully layered flavors, great balance and texture.  Predominantly tempranillo, the wine delivers assorted hints of flavors from cherry to rhubarb and cedar; a perfect food wine.

1998 Bodegas Riojanas Vina Albina Gran Reserva Rioja

My passion for California pinot noir is no secret.  Hopefully, Peter and Hiro can help me understand it roots through the fine wines of Burgundy, a comparison of interest for sometime.  As I was about to leave, a young man came in with admittedly no knowledge of wine and asked for a recommendation, presumably for a potentially special dinner.  After some discussion of a probable menu, he was led to the relatively small California section and I overheard Peter asking him if he had seem the movie, “Sideways.”  He most likely hooked him up with a nice pinot noir from the Santa Rita Hills that could change his life forever.

In its simplest form, wine is still about passion; the kind of passion that created Monopole.  Wholesale outlets and wine warehouses have their place. Fortunately, shops like this still exist for those of us who remember the value of personalized service from a neighborhood store.  In this case, “professional service” includes impressive expertise, all within a district that continuously fuels the senses.

1 comment | posted in Monopole Wine, Wine

November 24, 2011

Wine Gossip

By Lyle W. Norton

Vintage 2009 Pinot Noir

Autumn is a great time of year for many reasons; just one is that top Pinot Noir producers finally begin shipping their fall releases that have been purchased earlier in the year.  Many wineries will not ship to the Antelope Valley until November, assuring that our summer heat will not impact the wine.   Anticipations are high since Wine Spectator magazine’s James Laube declared the 2009 vintage pinot noir, especially Sonoma County, as arguably the decade’s best.   California pinot noir has made tremendous strides since early vintners set out to produce those astounding Burgundian wines in local soil.  Among the five major regions in the state to produce pinot noir (Mendocino, Sonoma, Carneros, Monterey Santa Barbara), the average vintage rating is nearly 96 points, 99 points for Sonoma which includes Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma Mountain, Sonoma Valley and Green Valley appellations.  As a comparison, the previousl two vintages received ratings of 88.4 and 90.8 points.  Since 2003, Sonoma pinot noir vintages have averaged over 90 points.  The 2009 vintage has moved them from the “outstanding” into the  “classic” category.

Admittedly spoiling myself with fine pinot noir, I soon will be receiving 2009 vintages from Kosta Browne, William Selyem and Auteur from Sonoma and Seasmoke and Rusack from Santa Barbara County.  Among my meager allocation and budget will be a fruity, medium-bodied Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2009 (91/$46) and a rich full-bodied Kosta Browne  Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2009 (95/$52), both highly touted and, more importantly, truly pleasurable to enjoy with friends.    By the way, the 10/15 issue of Wine Spectator has a good story on Ed Selyem and Burt Williams, early pioneers of California pinot noir.

Credit for the near-perfect 2009 vintage goes to moderate weather throughout the state and modest yields, something Brian Loring pays much attention to.  The Loring Wine Company produces outstanding Pinot Noir from 10 different vineyards located throughout the state.  His top rated vintage 2009 pinot noir, the Loring Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Durell Vineyard 2009 (94/$45), the Loring Pinot Noir Paso Robles Russell Family Vineyard 2009 (94/$45) and the Loring Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Rosella’s Vineyard 2009 (94/$45) are evidence of statewide moderate weather and a credit to the winemaking aptitude of Brian Loring.

Garys’ Vineyard, located in Monterey County’s Santa Lucia Highlands region, again, claims a major presence in the 2009 vintage.  The story is old now.  Two childhood friends named Gary emerge from college to transfer agricultural land into one of most respected vineyards in the state.  The following chart list ratings of outstanding vintage 2009 pinot noir from major producers using grapes from Garys’ Vineyard:

Siduri                                    94            $53

Loring                                  93            $45

Roar Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard 2009

AP Vin                                 93            $48

Kosta Browne                    93            $72

Roar                                     92            $50

Vision Cellars                    89            $48

Miner                                    86            $60

Logic tells us the grapes are exceptional and the winemaking varies.  However, if you find “Garys’ Vineyard” on any wine label, trust that you have found a quality wine.

Although a brief perusal of our local Bevmo store revealed many vintage 2009 Pinot Noir, the Nautilus Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009 ($25/90pts.) from New Zealand and the Erath Pinot Noir 2009 ($20/88 pts.} are two that I would recommend as very good, moderately priced wines with good fruit and texture.  In addition, I must give special mention to the Torii Mor “Deux Verres” Pinot Noir 2007 ($40/92 pts.) from a well-respected Oregon winemaker.  This may be a “find” since I checked the winery website and they have none listed under available library wines.

Vintage 2011

The trend of great California vintages in odd-numbered years may be coming to an end with much concern worldwide over the 2011 vintage.  In California, it was too much rain, in parts of Europe; there was excessive heat through the spring.  In other regions, periods of steady rain and extended heat played havoc with the vines.

As we all know, California experienced early rainfall and plenty of it through the spring.  In many regions mildew and even botrytis, a fungus that affects the vines, threatened low-yield and difficulty ahead in maintaining quality in a tough year.

The Napa Valley, who experienced a near perfect vintage 2007, had unusually cool temperatures that delayed harvest.  Central Coast and Paso Robles region were hit with a late frost that resulted in voluntary and involuntary fruit loss.  Many Mendocino County vineyards, impacted a few years back with fire damage, had to deal with above average rainfall and low temperatures.

By no means should we “throw in the towel” on vintage 2011.  First, October could offer some extra sunshine and winemakers are accustomed to unpredictable weather and adapting to make the best with what they have.  One prediction seems probable; that there will be less wine to go around when vintage 2011 is released in a few years.  Until that time, enthusiasts should be conscious of good value wines from vintages 2007 and 2009.

Vineyards on Catalina Island?

If one had access to acreage on the islands and was inclined to plant wine grapes, what varietals would match the terrior?   Having not been to Santa Catalina, almost totally unfamiliar with its climate, I can speculate to the existence of many microclimates that can support such diverse grapes as pinot noir and zinfandel.

Rusack, a small Santa Ynez Valley boutique winery, has produced well-reviewed pinot noir, syrah and sauvignon blanc for the past decade in the Solvang foothills.  Rusack is announcing their first release from the Santa Catalina Island Vineyards, the 2009 Zinfandel from the old El Rancho Escondido property.  So, why after many years in the wine business would Geoffrey Claflin Rusack and Alison Wrigley Rusack decide on the Catalina Islands?  The answer begins with Alison’s middle name.

Her great-grandfather, William Wrigley Jr. purchased the Santa Catalina Development Co. in 1919 and the family stills controls the land, including the old ranch site along the southwestern coast.   That’s where the Rusack’s have planted 4.5 acres, mostly in pinot noir and cool-climate chardonnay with a small plot dedicated to a zinfandel clone, unique to their name.

Santa Catalina Vineyards

Geoffrey Rusack discovered some vines, apparently from an old winery on Santa Cruz Island, part of the Channel Islands chain, received permission to remove them and had them analyzed by UC Davis as a zinfandel clone.  Some of the vines were relocated and planted on a small half-acre plot on the Santa Catalina Island Vineyards.  The Rusack Santa Catalina Island Vineyards Zinfandel 2009 will soon be the first release from the new label.  As a member of Rusack’s “Anacapa Club”, I will have an opportunity to acquire some fairly soon and am anxious to try it.

Whatever trends occur in the wine industry are most likely generated in California, responsible for 92% of US production.  Through good and bad vintages, our wine production will continue to grow at an extraordinary pace.  A 2008 study, “Recent Trends in the California Wine Grape Industry” by professors at UC, Davis, states that wine is responsible for 8.7% of agricultural revenue, a percentage that will continue to grow.  The North and Central Coast regions produce 36% of the state’s wine and regions like Paso Robles, as we have seen, have grown from 20 wineries in 1990 to over 170 today.

Nature’s element, new expanded regions and near fanatic attention to terrior reminds us that holistic wine production is an art as well as a science.  It is a part of our culture and will increasingly be a part of our identity.

Leave a comment | posted in Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast, Rusack Winery, Williams Seylem Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2009, Wine

September 5, 2011

Santa Barbara Wine Day

By Lyle W. Norton


By Lyle W. Norton  (8/13/2011)

An invitation to attend an afternoon Pinot Noir release party afforded me an opportunity to plan a complete wine day tasting new releases from the Santa Rita Hills and Santa Ynez appellations. If I timed my day properly, I could fit in lunch at Los Olivos village and a tasting of new Richard Longoria wines before the Foley Estate event.

Rancho Santa Rosa Vineyard

Foley Estate Winery, creators of some of California’s finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay since the 2002 vintage was celebrating the release of their special “Brand” series and Lindsay’s Vineyard Pinot Noir, vintage 2009.  Having covered earlier vintages, their careful blending of clones within the 230-acre Rancho Santa Rosa Vineyard and Lindsay’s (formerly Rancho Los Hermanos) Vineyard, use of oak as well as fermentation techniques has pushed complex flavors forward and increased richness and texture with each vintage.

An irony of the afternoon was finding time to sneak across from the tents to the tasting room to secure a few bottles of 2009 Foley Estate “Barrel Select” Chardonnay ($50), my hands down favorite.  This Chardonnay delivers nice flavors of tropical fruit, honey, and vanilla within a creamy, rich texture.  To paraphrase The Most Interesting Man In The World:  “ I don’t always drink Chardonnay, but when I do, I prefer Foley Estate “Barrel Select”. However, this party is about Pinot Noir and the food that supports it, ready to showcase local restaurants.

Oak influences are the signature of the 2009 Pinot Noir Rancho Santa Rosa Vineyard, lending earthiness to the bouquet and flavors.  Some tannins and tartness add to the structure of a rich, concentrated texture.

JA Ranch Pinot Noir

Perfectly braised beef short ribs from the Hadsten House Hotel, near the entrance of Solvang, accompanied the Foley Estate 2009 Pinot Noir, JA Ranch ($45), combining specific clones from the Rancho Santa Rosa and Lindsay’s Vineyards.  Typical Pinot elegance was evident on the nose and the earthiness was balanced with hints of vanilla, anise and a very soft texture.

Offering many luxury amenities at reasonable prices, the Hadsten House has been a true “find” in the Solvang area.  It is family friendly, offers a true gourmet breakfast and, now has an on-site restaurant featuring traditional dishes of chicken, salmon, chops steaks and a wine list continuously updated to feature the best the region has to offer. I can tell you that their well-spiced short ribs fell off the bone.

Just when I felt the “JA Ranch” Pinot was the “best of show,” along comes the Foley Estate 2009 Pinot Noir, T Anchor Ranch ($55)with enough spice on the nose and palate to pair with spice-rubbed lamb, courtesy of Petros Restaurant in the Wine Country Inn at Los Olivos village.  Certainly the most complex wine of the release, the “T Anchor

2009 "T Anchor" Pinot Noir

” has a variety of strong spices including cloves, brown sugar and cinnamon delivered through a velvety texture that lasts and lasts.  This is a good wine to track throughout the year.

The “Brand Series” Pinot Noir blend specific clones from the Rancho Santa Rosa and Lindsay’s Vineyards. Our final series taste was the 2009 Pinot Noir, “Bar Lazy S”, a

"Lazy S Ranch" Pinot Noir

medium-bodied wine with classic black cherry flavors preceded by a candied nose. The wine was accompanied by cannellini beans with Italian sausage, black and white pepper, pairing nicely with the toasted nut hints on the finish.

Whether red or white, the Foley “Barrel Select” concept blends the most complex and complementary barrels after the fermentation and aging process. A high percentage of the juice completes a malolactic fermentation process that adds to the softer, rich texture.  Fantastic Boneless Baby Back Ribs with Pressed Casaba Melon and Tomato Salad, for me, could pair with almost anything, including the 2009 Foley Estate Pinot “Barrel Select” ($60).  With a slight bouquet and traditional flavors, the complexity of this wine is nicely packaged in a creamy texture and long finish.

The 2009 Two Sisters Pinot Noir Lindsay’s Vineyard ($75)is comprised of the best clones within the vineyard, blended after individual aging in 90% new French oak barrels. With nice floral hints on the nose and caramel, cinnamon on the finish, “Two Sisters” has all the layered flavors and texture expected from a wine in the higher price range.

Foley "Barrel Select" Pinot Noir

The Foley’s daughters are placed in a prominent role throughout their family of wines.  After acquisition, the westerly Rancho Hermanos Vineyard was divided into two distinct vineyards and renamed for the sisters, Lindsay for the reds and Courtney for the whites. Both “Two Sister” wines are carefully crafted, but the Pinot Noir will need lengthy cellar time.

Another Foley family operation, Lincourt Winery, located in the Santa Ynez Valley near Los Olivos village, combines the sister’s names for its own.  Adding sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio and cabernet sauvignon to the traditional pinot noir and chardonnay, Lincourt offers a palate of reasonably priced, quality wines.

The Foley Estate Winery, under the leadership of winemaker Leslie Renaud, is producing luscious high-end Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in a region known for it, within a state that leads the world.  There are simply many to choose from.  For those interested in “stepping up” their wine experience a notch, I feel that the Captain’s Club” would be both informative and fun.  Although I am not a member, I do know that their wines are really getting good, the winery resides in a serene valley located off Highway 246 and they always host multiple events for the member’s enjoyment.

My previously mentioned detour to the Richard Longoria tasting room, initially intended to secure a specific wine, introduced me to some new releases, tasted outside, in a lovely garden setting.  I tasted the 2008 Longoria “Fe Ciega Vineyard” Pinot Noir ($48)as a symbolic gesture.  Actually, this wine had me at hello.  Rated consistently in the mid-

Longoria "Fe Ciega Vineyard" Pinot Noir

nineties, the vintage 2008 “Fe Ciega” has gotten great press, convincing me to acquire a few bottles to cellar for at least a year.

In the garden, we began with a vintage 2010 Albarino ($23), offering some soft tropical fruit with a citrus “kick”.  A nice wine, but with all the chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, viognier and white Rhone-style blends saturating the market, one wonders where this Spanish white grape will fit in.

Continuing to work with Spanish varietals in the warmer Santa Ynez Valley, Longoria has planted the tempranillo grape, often compared to our

2010 Longoria "Albarino" a white Spanish grape.

cabernet sauvignon. Having first tasted the 2008 Longoria Tempranillo Clover Creek Vineyard ($36) months earlier at a private tasting in Glendale, I was anxious to discover if my initial positive impressions were justified.  Once again, the somewhat earthy bouquet and flavors were enhanced with nice structure and texture, aided with hints of Merlot and Syrah. I would definitely select this vintage from a wine list to pair with red meats or pasta.

Richard Longoria produces two distinct single-vineyard Syrah, one from the Alisos Vineyard in Los Alamos Valley, the other from Clover Creek Vineyard in Santa Ynez.  Described as a more restrained vintage than past due to cooler late summer and less sugar content, the 2007 Longoria

Syrah from Alisos Vineyard in Los Alamos

Syrah Alisos Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($34), even if somewhat acidic, expressed wonderfully balanced spice and berry flavors.  Although it is drinkable now, this wine definitely needs time to optimize.  For those who have access to wild meats like venison or boar, this syrah would pair perfectly.

The thought of ten new and interesting wines, a few for my cellar, boneless baby back ribs with pressed casaba melon and tomato salad and an opportunity to spend a day amidst the new California landscape; oak-studded rolling hills and vineyards has me already wanting to do it again.

Leave a comment | posted in 2008 Longoria "Fe Ciega Vineyard" Pinot Noir, 2008 Longoria Tempranillo Clover Creek Vineyard, 2009 Foley Estate "Barrel Select" Chardonnay, 2009 Pinot Noir Rancho Santa Rosa Vineyard Pinot Noir, braised beef short ribs, Foley Estate 2009 Pinot Noir, Foley Estate 2009 Pinot Noir Bar Lazy S, Food, JA Ranch, Longoria 2010 Albarino, Rancho Santa Rosa Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills, T Anchor Ranch, Wine

August 10, 2011

“Wine, Women and Song”

By Lyle W. Norton


 

Hotel Cheval

Curiosity, and the Hotel Cheval property in Paso Robles led me to accept an invitation to attend an inaugural event called “Wine, Women and Song”, promoting a new book and wine company from author, entrepreneur Deborah Brenner and actress, singer/songwriter Rebecca Pigeon’s new release, “Slingshot,” due out in October 2011. Aside from promoting their wares, the two have embarked on a national tour supporting the Farm Aid effort.

Hotel Cheval is a charming inn, with 16 intimate rooms, located steps from the Paso Robles town square.  It’s perfect for those who want a pampered wine tasting weekend.  A quiet apéritif after dinner around one of the outdoor fireplaces or meeting friends for evening tastings at the Pony Club outdoor patio are both experiences that the property can deliver.  Well-appointed, luxurious rooms complete the upscale, relaxing encounter

Actually, Rebecca Pigeon was an attraction for me, having enjoyed many of her films including “State and Main,” “Red” and her memorable role as Susan Ricci in the classic “Spanish Prisoner,” directed by husband David Mamet.  This evening, her song writing and vocal skills will be showcased to 100 wine tasters, outdoors on a beautiful night.  No pressure there.

 

Deborah Brenner

During the writing of her book, “Women of the Vine,” Deborah Brenner met and conferred with several prominent women in the wine industry.  Women like Merry Edwards, Heidi Patterson Barrett, Amelia Ceja and others not only gave her inspiration to finish the book, but to initiate an original company to unite several top women wine makers contributing wine under the new brand, “Women of the Vine.”

The “Women of the Vine” label gives sustainable growers and female wine makers a collaborative setting that has provided opportunity to bring their wines to the marketplace.  Thus far, some high-profile wine makers are contributing some very good wines.

Alison Crowe, who “cut her teeth” in winemaking for Randall Grahm at Bonny Doon Vineyards, produced two white and three red varietals, her WOTV Sauvignon Blanc Central Coast 2009, in my opinion, leading the way.  In addition, some high-end single-varietals and blends, from noted wine makers, stole the show.

Winemaker Heidi Peterson Barrett is part of Napa lore as a member of the Barrett Family, who’s Chateau Montelena Chardonnay helped establish some dominance of California wines at the 1976 Paris Tastings.  She has earned her own reputation by upgrading Beuhler Winery to produce reasonably priced, high quality wines and from her work with Screaming Eagle.  Her WOTV wine is the beautifully balanced, spice-driven 2006 Napa Valley Syrah ($65), terrific from nose to finish.

Dorothy Schuler, known for her Spanish varietals under the Bodegas Paso Robles label, contributed the WOTV 2006 Paso Robles Tempranillo ($34), well-balanced with a nice “jolt” of vanilla on the finish.  Her WOTV 2003 NV Napa Rojo ($52) blend was not available but the mixture of dry-farmed touriga, graciano, tempranillo and tinto cao left me intrigued.

The tasting also included a variety of wines from Napa Valley’s Miner Winery and J Dusi Wines from winemaker Janelle Dusi who’s family has been an integral part of the Paso Robles wine community for decades.

Miner Family Winery

The Miner Family Winery has develop a reputation for creating fine wines, especially their meritage, “Oracle” ($90) from Napa Valley.  Tonight, we tasted a soft, accessible 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, the small lot 2009 Napa Valley Petite Sirah ($40) and the unique 2008 Sangiovese Gibson Ranch($24) from Mendocino County. Plantings of Sangiovese, the dominant grape of Italian Chianti, has expanded in California over the past decade, not necessarily in the cool northern coast.  Releases from the Miner Family Winery should interest all serious wine enthusiasts.  Of note, Miner is now producing Pinot Noir from Garys’ and Rosella’s Vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands.

J Dusi Wines

The Dante Dusi Vineyard has played an important role in providing grapes for several high-end Paso Robles zinfandel wines since WW11.  Dante’s granddaughter, Janelle has expanded the family repertoire into winemaking through the release of her own label, J Dusi Wines.  Vintages 2007 and 2008 J Dusi Zinfandel offer proof that she can consistently create good, old-fashioned jammy, Paso Zin.  A must to try from J Dusi is the luscious zinfandel port wine.  It is a dessert in itself.

The tasting was both educational an enjoyable, but it was time to take our glasses and ourselves to the patio to enjoy the musical portion of the evening.

While reviewing her CD, “Slingshot”, one critic compared Rebecca Pigeon to the legendary Joni Mitchell, not musically but for imaginative lyrics. As she opened with “Get Up Get Out’, a song about change, I found her musical style to be as elusive as it was creative and charismatic.

Rebecca Pigeon

Beautifully produced by Larry Klein, “Slingshot” is a compilation of short stories that evoke visual images that one may find in a film. The haunting “Kiss Me”, with a melody reminiscent of early Janis Ian and the deceivingly upbeat, “I Love No-One” illustrate the diversity of her music, tied together with self-revealing, meaningful lyrics and an expressive voice.

Ms. Pigeon references acting as a metaphor for real life hypocrisy in “Is Anyone”, melodically set in a 30’s French style which leaves us with the following thought”

“And we play out the scene

And our heat sears the screen

Are we really what we seem

Oh well, Is Anyone?”

“He’s as young as Prozac, he’s as old as the wheel“ describes Rebecca’s “Disintegration Man”, a rock ballad filled with witticisms and edgy modern references.  Her signature piece at the concert and on the CD is a poignant cover of the late Warren Zevon’s classic ballad, “Searching For A Heart.”  Briefly commenting on Zevon, she then paid tribute through her beautiful rendition, a lasting end to the concert and our evening.

Both the “Women of the Vine” and “Wine, Women and Song” collaborations support and promote the Farm Aid benefit, donating a part of their profits to help sustain the American farmer. This event was the first of a national tour through October featuring wine tasting and Rebecca’s music, a combination I would willingly experience again.  More information on both artists can be found at www.womenofthevine.com and www.rebeccapigeon.com

Leave a comment | posted in Deborah Brenner, j Dusi Wines, miner family winery, music, rebecca pigeon, Wine, Women of the Vine

July 29, 2011

The Value of “Barrel 27″

By Lyle W. Norton

On our way to attend an event called, “Wine, Women and Song” at the quaint Hotel Cheval in downtown Paso Robles, we received a text that our friends, Rosemary and David, were going to be in town for the last few nights of their month-long “No Reservation Road Trip.”  This two night get-a-way just got busier.

As friends, our serious interest in wine began in the mid-eighties.  Discovering new eating establishments and wines is what we are about when our paths cross in Paso.  During lunch, I explained my plans to visit Barrel 27, a new winery that recently has received recognition for producing good value-priced Rhone-style blends. With everyone game after lunch, we headed east from town to hopefully, discover some new releases.

Reviews from two major periodicals led me to the Barrel 27 ’08 “High On The Hog” White blend ($15) with ratings well into the nineties, medium-dry with layers of flavor.  Aside from comparing “Hog” vintages ’08 and ’09, the plan was to taste their entire palate of single-varietal and blended wines.

Barrel 27 Winery is located approximately one mile east of Highway 101, in the old industrial condo building that once housed Garretson Winery.  It’s visible from Highway 46, but only accessible from Golden Hill and Union Roads   Winemakers and friends, McPrice Myers and Russell From, drawn together by fate, are very upfront about their mission to respect the fact that hard working people should be able to drink high quality wine and still pay for the mortgage, car, kids and pets.  With two whites, five reds and a moscato dessert wine, we set about to make our own judgments.

From 100% Santa Barbara County vineyards, their second release of “Sittin’ Pretty” Viognier 2010 ($18) delivered a nice blend of tropical and orchard fruits, but the rich, dense texture embodied the softer flavors of honey and melon. Although its price is average, this wine surpasses the standard in bouquet and taste.

I was not surprised that the 2009 “High On The Hog” White ($16), primarily Grenache Blanc and Viognier, stood up to its predecessor in overall quality.  Strong floral hints on the nose led to complex orchard fruit, honey and softened mineral flavors through a nice finish.  This is a great food wine.

Only their second vintage, Barrel 27’s single-varietal release of Grenache, a grape that, when done properly, can push the fruit forward without becoming overpowering.  Exhibiting a beautiful deep, ruby color, the 2008 ‘Rock and a Hard Place”  Grenache” ($18) was superbly balanced and full-bodied, delivering jammy fruit and spice on the palate.  The wine was rated in the high eighties by Wine Spectator and Robert Parker.

The winery’s signature release, sourced from Santa Barbara County vineyards exclusively, is poised to deliver the highest quality at value price of any Syrah in California. Consumer interest in Syrah from our central coast has driven starting costs above $30 per bottle.  The 2007 “Right Hand Man” Syrah ($18) is bold, both in bouquet and taste, with complexity and richness of wines twice the price.  Simply stated, this wine is a wonderful “find.”

The next wines are special, illustrating the winery’s ability to create single-varietals and blends with texture and complexity.  The costs are higher, but very competitive with similar high-end wines. Three wines before us, a bold Syrah, a classic Rhone-style and a “bullish” blend that promises to, possibly, be “the great steak wine of all-time.”

Smelling the bouquet of the 2007 “Head Honcho” Syrah($28) is a sensual task in itself.  The longer you do it, the more aromas you discover. The texture (heavy on the tongue) and the balance of sweet and savory flavors, to be expected from quality syrah, combine with typical spice influences to signify a compelling wine even before you experience floral hints on the finish.  A few bottles will rest in my wine cabinet for 6-12 months because everything about this exceptional wine signals that it will get better with time.

After discovering Barrel 27 through their white Rhone-style blend, the moment has come to taste their only classic Rhone-style red blend, unavoidably mindful of comparisons with wines tasted during my recent trip to Chateaunef-du-Pape.  The 2008 “Hand Over Fist” ($30) is Barrel 27’s highest rated wine, a classic Rhone-style blend of syrah (60%), Grenache (30%) and mourvedre (10%), nearly identical to those in the southern Rhone Valley.  Quoting some knowledgable person, “this wine is big and bold from nose to finish.”  The flavors are perfectly balanced, very jammy and liqueur-type in their intensity.  I agree with the winery’s recommendation to decant the wine for at least an hour, thinking maybe two is better.  A wine like this must have time to breathe and adjust to a new environment before it begins to “open up” to strangers.

I propose another historical event, a blind tasting to be held in Avignon, pitting new Paso Robles Rhone-style whites and reds against legendary, century-old wines from Gigondas, Chateaunef-du-Pape and other southern Rhone Valley appellations.  California is at the same stage in Rhone-style blend development as the Napa Valley was with Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay during the 1976 Paris Tastings.  How we would compare is still a question, but my instincts see us performing better than expected.

Visualize the “Hand Over Fist,” The Saxum James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles 2007 ($67), Wine spectator’s 2010 Wine of the Year, the Tablas Creek Espirit de Beaucastel Paso Robles 2007 ($50) representing California going head-to-head with France’s Chateau de Beaucastel Chateaunef-du-Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin Grande Cuvee’ 2007 ($535), Domaine les Pallieres Gigondas Terrasse du Diable 2007 ($28) and others.  We have nothing to lose and everything to gain from such a contest.

In conversations within French people about California, they always inquire how far I live from the Napa Valley.  Paso Robles, as a winegrowing region, was not on their radar at all.  A good showing from our stealth Paso wines would send shock waves through the world wine business.

The previously referenced “monster wine” is a powerful, multi-regional blend of Petit Verdot, representing Bordeaux, Syrah, from the Rhone Valley and Tempranillo, originating from the Roija region of Spain.  Concentrated fruit and berries, exotic spices, vanilla and, even chocolate are up-front on the nose through the finish of the 2007 “Bull By The Horns” Red Wine ($32).  This is a wine that needs that to be tamed by some extra time in the bottle, at proper temperature, with regular turnings.  This investment will result in a mature wine that will enjoy the company of a Filet Mignon with “Diana Sauce,” a favorite recipe from the “Wine Lover’s Cookbook.”

The tasting concluded with the 2008 “Head Over Heels” Moscato ($23), Barrel 27’s sweet, slightly sparkling, dessert wine. To me, an apéritif or dessert wine must stand on its own, shine with or without the accompaniment of everything from crème brulee to sharp cheeses.  The “Head Over Heels” has complex flavors of orchard fruits(peach), honey and melons. However, minerality and nice floral hints on the finish build a case that it can be THE dessert if necessary.

I wrote about all Barrel 27’s releases because I like them all.  For those beginning to research and target wines, they offer very good quality at a decent value.  My recommendation is to discover and enjoy their wines before the entire area does. Real or perceived scarcity can result in higher prices.

Our rendezvous with friends also led to some “catching up” over a nice lunch at Thomas Hill Organics and another memorable dinner at “Artisan,” arguably Paso Robles best restaurant, accompanied by a 2005 Leona Valley Winery “I+L+Y=O” Bordeaux blend from my cellar.  As for the “Wine, Women and Song” event, that’s another story.

Leave a comment | posted in "Artisan" Paso Robles, 2007 "Bull By The Horns" Red Wine, 2007 "Head Honcho" Syrah, 2007 "Right Hand Man" Syrah, 2008 "Hand Over Fist", 2008 "Head Over Heels" Moscato, 2008 "Rock and a Hard Place" Grenache, 2009 "High On The Hog", Barrel 27 Winery, Thomas Hill Organics, Wine

July 18, 2011

Vins de Provence

By Lyle W. Norton

 

Long before being invited to this private tasting at the Mondrian Hotel in West Hollywood, I was aware that imports and sales of rose’ has risen over 20% and that a significant portion is produced in the Provence region of southern France.  However, there we were, standing in the white-on-white interior fusion restaurant, Asia de Cuba, staring at the wines of 18 Provence châteaux, set to discover what the excitement is all about.

With one small exception, all grapes produce the same clear juice, the color coming from lengthened contact with the skins.  Rose’ follows the same concept, but with very brief contact.  The wine still benefits from the pigments and tannins, giving the dry Rose’ its color, bouquet and flavor.  For prospective, 10% of the world’s wine production is rose’, 28% of all rose’ is French and 40% of that comes from Provence, with vineyards extending from the Mediterranean Sea up through Aix en Provence.

Throughout the world, Provence is the only region whose focus, primarily, is the production of dry rose’.  The vast majority comes from three appellations, each with distinctions within that create clear characteristics in the flavors.  Notably, Provencal winemakers ferment each varietal, individually, in vats, assembling the final “cuvee” blend afterward.  Prominent Rhone Valley grapes such as Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre are used along with Cabernet Sauvignon, renowned in the Bordeaux region.

A collaboration between two winemakers from the heart of Provence led to the creation of Abbaye Saint Hilaire whose wine of note was not a rose’, but an inimitable red Rhone-blend that added 15% Cabernet Sauvingon, a strange bedfellow. The resulting Abbaye Saint Hilaire Cuvee Prieur Red Wine 2007 was a very accessible, well-balanced wine with loads of fruit on the nose and palate, allowing the 60% syrah to contribute a spicy, white pepper finish.  With some luck, one may find this reasonably priced cuvee’ on a SoCal wine list.  The fruit intensity was very clear and appreciated, but the Abbaye Saint Hilaire Cuvee Prieur Rose’ 2010 was best expressed through a soft minerality throughout.

Chateau D’Esclans Domaines Sacha Lichine presented a flight of four rose’, each with vast differences in techniques, flavor and price point.  From the ripest vines on the property, The Grenache-based Chateau D’Esclans-Domaines Sacha Lichine “Whispering Angel” Rose 2010, their most popular wine, is lightly aromatic, heavy on flavor and designed to be very food-friendly.  By comparison with the full stainless steel fermentation, the mid-priced Esclans Cotes de Provence Rose’ 2008 added 20% oak to effectively soften the wine.  A real treat was in store with the last two wines, each from 50 to 80-year-old vines, aged in 100% oak barrels for months before release.

Both the Chateau D’Esclans—Domaines Sacha Lichine “Les Clans”($60) and “Garrus ($100) Rose’ 2008, each boasting a 75% Grenache, 25% rolle blend, expressed more complex, well-balanced flavors, adequate to stand up to food or enjoy individually.  However, at $20, I fully understand the attraction to “Whispering Angel”.

If you are a person who selects wine by the label or bottle shape, Chateau de Berne is targeting you.  Introducing new “liqueur” type, rectangular bottles two years ago, the Chateau de Berne Cuvee Speciale Rose 2010 has become a huge success, partly because of the sexy bottle, mostly because it’s a beautiful, reasonably priced dry rose’. Looking like a bottle of “patis”, consumed at an outdoor café, by a Peter Mayle character, this Grenache-cinsualt blend has the color of rose petals, a floral nose accented with soft orchard fruits that balance other exotic fruits on the palate.  The cinsault-grenache blend Chateau de Berne Bistrot Troezien Rose 2010, with the fruit intensity to match most, generates popularity through its $11 retail price.

Another affordable rose’ with a sexy bottle, more vibrant in color, the Chateau Gassier Sables d’ Azur Rose’ 2010, from 100% stainless steel, was very fruit-forward through the finish.  The sales representative, boasting an 87 pt. rating from Wine Spectator, told us the wine is available throughout the L.A. region for under $15.

Clearly one of the best I tasted was the crisp, clean Chateau Roubine, Cru Classe’ Cuvee Classique Rose 2010, compiled from six Rhone grapes and Cabernet Sauvignon, followed a nice floral nose with fresh, expressive fruit that would pair well with Asian dishes or a porch swing.  This wine is now on my radar.  The Chateau Roubine Cru Classe Cuvee Classique White Wine 2010, combining lesser known varietals ugni-Blanc, semillon, rolle and clairette, is recommended to those seeking a very dry, light wine with significant mineral notes.

Yet a third stylish bottle housed the Chateau Saint Pierre Rose’ Cuvee Tradition 2010, a salmon-tinted, cinsault-based rose’ with peach and other orchard fruits on the nose and palate.  The flavors and texture were very rich and a delightful burst of spicy notes led to a nice finish. The cinsault grape is used extensively in Vins de Provnence, both as dominant and sub-dominant partners. Cinsault adds softness and bouquet to the famous Rhone Valley blends and, now, offers a reprise performance with rose’.

Unique terrior with cooing winds and longer shade sets Domaine de Rimaresq apart from many wineries and has led to recent accolades from Wine Spectator, Steven Tanzer and others. The Domaine de Rimauresq “Petit Rimauresq” Rose’ 2010 and Domaine de Rimauresq “Rimauresq Cru Classe” Rose’ 2010, both highly powered varietal blends, expressed concentrated, well-balanced fruit flavors and an unusually rich finish.

Rose’ has made a comeback, consumer interest has returned and Vins de Provence understands the dynamics.  Many of these featured wineries have built lodging on the chateaux to promote tourism. However, the bottom line of success is one’s ability to compete in the world market, which requires exports to California.

At times, rose’ can understandingly evoke a “taste one, tasted them all” attitude in some and “this isn’t half bad” among indiscriminate others.  However, I found the Vin de Provence rose’ consistently expressed complex, concentrated flavor that was very balanced, none better than the one I would like to take home.

Among many other fine wines, my top rose’ uses all organically grown grapes, mostly Grenache, to create a wine that embodies all the best qualities of the region.  The Famille Sumeire Chateau L’ Afrique 2010, in addition to more traditional floral, orchard fruit nose and flavors, offers a clean, subtle cranberry tartness, all perfectly balanced and elegant.

The Sumeire family has cultivated their vineyards since the beginning of the 20th century.  Today, the 600 acres of vineyards, divided among three estates, are all officially organic.  Famille Sumeire also produced the Chateau L’ Afrique Red 2009, a Grenache-based Rhone-blend with a powerful nose and soft minerality, although benefits will be delivered with more time.

In France, vin rose’ out sells white wine and much of the production comes from the Provence.  As the wines emerge into the California market, they can, in my opinion, assimilate quite well and offer complex, deep flavors for those who are seeking something light during the summer months or year-round with Asian cuisine.

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