With my love of California pinot noir, I have longed to explore the famous wines of the Burgundy region of France.  Found among the cellars of the most discriminate collector’s, the great, elegant richness has not been easily available to the general consumer over the past few decades because of cost and the emergence of pinot noir in California and Oregon.  High quality winemakers Williams Seylem, Brian Loring and many others sight inspiration from exposure to Burgundian red wines at an early age.  So, when I discovered that Peter Nelson of Monopole Wines in Pasadena was leading a Burgundy focus class, I immediately registered.

The heart of Monopole is European wines and co-owners Nelson and Hiro Tamaki are a reliable source of providing vintages with a high quality to cost ratio.  Their extensive backgrounds as Master Sommelier to the Advanced Level of the Wine and Spirits Education Trust are impressive and led to an enjoyable, informative evening that included tasting 10 regional wines, both red and white.

Vineyard in Chambertin

The region of Burgundy lies in eastern France, southeast of Paris.   Cistern monks, during the 12^th Century controlled much of the land and began devoting time to winemaking.  They were the first to discover the variety of terroir, often distinctive every few meters. It seems that the diverse soils are all great, the weather is consistent and east-facing slopes, necessary for Burgundian varietals, are abundant.  Although half the size of Bordeaux, the Burgundy region boasts nearly 100 appellations and an excess of 1,000 named vineyards.

In most French regions, the wine is recognizable by the appellation, not the grape.  As a result, most people are not aware that famous Burgundy wines from Chablis, Cote d’ Or and Maconais use more than 98% of the time, only two grapes:  chardonnay for whites and pinot noir for reds. The only exception is the most southerly village of Beaujolais that experiments with the gamay grape.

The French closely regulate each region in their country and there are four levels of quality that identify Burgundian wines.  Regional or “Bourgogne” (Bor-gon-yeh) wines, making up more than 50% of production, are generally sourced by negiotiants (brokers who purchase grapes from other growers to make their wine) from any Burgundy appellation and are made for everyday consumption.  “Village” (Vee-Lawsh) wines represent 30% of production and are also sourced by negotiants, but must include only grapes from one specific village such as Gevrey-Chambertin or Muersault.

From 600 higher altitude single-vineyards come wines that have special characteristics worthy of a Premier Cru designation, about 15% of total production. Another 33 single-vineyards (2%) have been recognized for great qualities that earn a Grand Cru designation.

Of course, the reality of those Premier and Grand Cru wines is that they are extremely expensive. A recent Wine Spectator report on top-scoring Red Burgundies included wines like the Joseph Drouhin Musigny 2009 ($594), Jean Grivot Richebourg 2009 ($700), Denis Mortet Chambertin 2008 ($650) and several others in the $300 per bottle range. The same issue of the magazine highlighted affordable Burgundies under $100. Arguments ensue that the great California and Oregon pinot noir are as good quality and, generally a much better value.

However, it’s not always a competition.  Indeed, many of California’s fine pinot noir releases are successfully replicating Burgundies but the terroir is different. Terroir within Burgundy displays diverse soils that produce that minerality, those true citrus or butterscotch flavors in its whites and the deep berry and cherry flavors, the spice and earthiness in the reds.  By opening over $700 of Burgundy wines, the Monopole class allows us to experience, first hand, the bloodlines of those produced by the Cistern monks.

The first wine opened was the 2008 Patrice Rion Bourgogne Blanc ($25), a moderately priced white wine.  The label tells us that the negotiant is Patrice Rion who sourced chardonnay grapes in 2008 from throughout all of Burgundy. With a slight bouquet and lacking depth, there was a nice minerality and a natural lemony flavor throughout the finish.  The 2007 Jaffelin Muersault ($50) from the village of Meursault in the Cote du Beane sub-region, expressed nice stone fruit on the nose, some oak and nut influences with creamy vanilla on the finish.

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

The last three white wines were all Grand Cru, priced among the finest California chardonnay, each conveying very distinctive flavors. The 2009 Louis Latour, Puligny-Montrachet ler Cru, “Les Truffieres” ($55)had a nice mineral, earthy quality, with hints of lemon-lime and supple melon throughout a very long finish.  Some of the world’s greatest white wines are made in the Puligny-Montrachet village and many can be aged for up to 10 years, distinct from our chardonnay that is generally consumed within 12 months of release.  Louis Latour is a well-known negotiant that, as many others, produces single-vineyard Grand Cru as well as Bourgogne wines.

Puligny-Montrachet “Les Truffieres”

The 2008 Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru, “Valmur” ($50) from the most northerly sub-region also put across a nice minerality, although I preferred the Puligny-Montrachet.  The final white, the 2009 Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru ($90) had it all, powerful aromas, a slate-type minerality, citrus and rich butterscotch and vanilla on the finish.  This is an exceptional wine, but I was still drawn to the Puligny-Montrachet for its value.

Of the value-priced reds, my preference was the 2009 Chateau de la Cree, Santanay “Clos de la Confrerie”, a Village wine with darker, earthy characteristics of tobacco and smokiness that will only get better with age.

Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru “Valmur”

The next Premier Cru wines, the 2008 Domaine de Pousse d’Or Volnay ler Cru “Caillerets” ($85) and the 2007 Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanee ler Cru “Les Beaumonts” ($95) were both very floral on the nose and had classic cherry, raspberry flavors with nice intensity and silkiness in the mouth. The pure elegance of pinot noir was thoroughly on display in both.

The final listed wine, the 2005 Vincent Girardin Grand Cru “Clos Vougeot” ($150), pronounced “Clo-Vo-Jo” is living proof that Burgundy wines are not about being huge, but elegant.  After a graceful and spicy bouquet, the same traditional flavors became richer which, in

Vincent Girardin Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

turn, unveiled layers of new essence to the finish, too expensive to own, but lovely to taste.

Laboure’-Roi Gevrey-Chambertin

Peter promised a mystery wine at the end of the session that became a 1990 Labroure’-Roi Gevrey-Chambertin, sourced from one of the most prestigious appellations in the Cote d’Or.  This mature Village wine, acquired through a private source, is old enough to drink itself. There was an explicit earthiness from bouquet to finish immersed with ripened berry flavors that did not overpower.  Declared ready to drink, grilled salmon with a Parmesan rub paired quite well with my newly acquired bottle.

The major take away from the tasting was that Burgundy wines are, in fact, distinctive and, with some experience, I may, one day, readily distinguish them from the Sonoma, Monterey and Santa Barbara County pinot noir and chardonnay that I continue to enjoy. For some that may be dissuaded by descriptions of minerality, earthiness, smokey or tannic, the flavors of these Burgundies are neither subtle nor obvious, but as multi-faceted and integrated as the soil will allow them to be.

At times overshadowed by the adjacent Santa Rita Hills appellation, the Santa Ynez Valley region provides a plethora of small boutique wineries

Steep vineyards at Demetria Estate

producing very impressive releases, often under the radar of many consumers.  On a gorgeous March day, I had an opportunity to follow-up with two local winemakers, both creating stunning wines, one making history.

Deep into the valley, miles up Foxen Canyon Road, I come upon a small, discreet sign and electronic gate, the entrance to the entrance of Demetria Winery.  Inside the first gate, holding the code to the second, I began the 3.5-mile trek on a long and winding hilltop road surrounded by steep vineyards and incredible vistas.  Past the second gate, up the road another quarter-mile, we pass the beautiful home of John Zahoudanis, founder/owner and another few hundred yards, we find a classic country French estate winery/tasting room.  My arrival at Demetria, greeted by Alexei Zahoudanis, looking like the young “world’s most interesting man”, was full of anticipation of tasting good wines, including the 2009 Demetria “Eighteen” Chardonnay Reserve, Santa Rita Hills ($45), having tasted the previous vintage last year.

Grown in the westerly Santa Rita Hills appellation, known to produce diverse, micro-climate specific chardonnay, both vintages of the “Eighteen” expressed nice stone fruit, pineapple and floral notes on the nose, emphasizing rich pear and peach flavors that yield some acidity on the finish.  Adding 100% malolactic fermentation and negligible non-native yeast, this bone-dry wine is definitely one to bookmark.

Tasting room at Demetria Estate

Known for the production of both Burgundian and Rhone-style wines, Alexei suggested a comparison of the 2009 and 2010 Demetria “Cuvee Papou” ($28).  “Papou”, meaning grandpa in Greek, is a Rhone white blend tribute to John’s grandfather that, through various vintages, includes such varietals as marsanne, roussane and grenache blanc grapes.  The distinction in the 2010 vintage is the addition of 35% roussane to the traditional marsanne-grenache blanc blend.  The result is a full feel in the mouth and more expressive orchard fruit flavors, a wine that will pair well with food or just sipping on a nice summer evening.

2007 Demetria “Cuvee Papou”

Speaking of good food wine, the 2009 Demetria Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley expresses an earthy bouquet with nice acidity and spice in the flavors, a nice addition to a marinated pork roast.  Likewise, the 2009 Demetria Tempranillo ($55), from some of the oldest vines in the valley and spending 24 months in oak, has the deep, layered flavors that will stand up to spicy meats.

Soon, a gentleman looking very much like a Santa Barbara surfer  dude, with a pleasing Australian accent, joined us.  Harry Waye, the winemaker at Demetria, enthusiastically discusses his wines with anyone who will listen.  The passion exhibited by both Alexei and Harry actually made the wine taste  better.  Michael Roth, the original winemaker, is still involved as a consultant.

Saving the best wines for last, Alexei opened a bottle of 2009 Demetria “North Slope” Syrah ($37), a flagship release whose 2008 vintage received a 94-point rating from Wine Advocate.  The “North Slope” adds 5% viognier that is field-planted with the syrah, both biodynamically farmed.  It conveys ripened fruit on the nose and palate with the definitive creamy texture, setting it apart from other wines.  The next wine, the Rhone-style grenache-syrah-mourvedre blend 2009 Demetria “Cuvee Constantine,” flaunted very rich and jammy fruit flavors, notably the result of a late season heat spike, causing some grapes to be over ripened.  the end product is a nicely textured accessible wine that, according to Alexei, is ready to drink.

I am always interested when I see a good California single-varietal grenache, whether from Paso Robles, Calaveras County or points unknown.  the flavors are typically upfront with rich texture.  To my surprise, we ended the tasting experience with the all-grenache 2009 Demetria Rose’, a very nice summer sipping wine that delivers a vibrant acidity and flavors of strawberry and watermelon.  This rose’ could also accompany a light lunch.

Alexei Zahoudanis and Harry Waye

Although isolated, the Demetria Estate Winery provides aesthetics, great wine and a unique tasting experience, equal to any in the region.  Call ahead before your next visit to the area and give yourselves some time to get up and down the ridge.

Outside of Solvang, up Ballard Canyon Road, one will find Rusack Vineyards, a small boutique winery that has produced low-yield, handcrafted wines since 1995, mostly under the direction of the husband-wife winemaking team of John and Helen Falcone.  I went to taste the inaugural vintages from their new vineyards on Santa Catalina Island, but took some time to enjoy the 2009 Rusack Reserve Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills, sourced from the Fiddlestix and Rio VistaVineyards near Santa Rosa Road.  I have become familiar with the soft cinnamon on the nose and palate and the nice long finish that appear after ample decanting.  I was anxious to taste the 2008 Rusack “Anacapa,” a cabernet franc-based Bordeaux blend, to preview the bottle in my cellar.  Remarkable balance and soft flavors await, but both wines will continue to mature with some time in the bottle.

As reported before, Geoff and Alison Wrigley Rusack over the past few years have been engaged in a serious project to establish vineyards on and produce exclusive wines from Santa Catalina Island.  Alison is the great grand-daughter of William Wrigley Jr. who purchased the Santa Catalina Island Co. in 1919 and the family still owns most of the developable land.  The Rusacks in 2007 made use of the old El Rancho Escondido site along the southwestern coastline to plant 4.5 acres of vines:  2.5 in chardonnay, 1.5 in pinot noir and a special half-acre of ancient zinfandel, mined from Santa Cruz Island, part of the Channel Islands.

The vines, remnants from a rustic mission vineyard, were removed and sent to UC Davis for identification.  The lab determined the grapes to be from the zinfandel varietal and, replanted on Catalina, they exclusively make up the 60 cases of the first-harvest 2009 Rusack Santa Catalina Island Vineyards Zinfandel.  Although young and not a big fruit bomb, the wine expressed a nice spice to the flavors with hints of vanilla at the finish.

A nice crispness with some oak influences aptly describes the 2009 Rusack Santa Catalina Island Vineyards Chardonnay (250 cases), partially the result of 50% malolactic fermentation that impacts the full tropical bouquet and complex flavors.

All the grapes were forced to weather a 100-degree heat spike in the fall, putting even more pressure on the extensive, yet delicate harvest process.  The grapes, some battling dehydration and pests, were picked during two early mornings, quickly transported in large bins to the Catalina Airport, loaded and flown to the Santa Ynez airport and unloaded and transported again to the Rusack facility to begin the winemaking process.  You’ve gotta love their

1st Vintage Santa Catalina Island wines

commitment.

The pinot noir grapes, some the last to be transported off the island, seem to have “weathered the storm” quite well.  Following a wonderful, traditional pinot bouquet of spice and black cherry, the 2009 Rusack Santa Catalina Island Vineyard Pinot Noir (125 cases) rewards the palate with cinnamon, vanilla and black cherry through an extended finish.

One can only guess the future of the island label.  The Rusack team, with a history of success, has done extensive research and, barring a consistently unpredictable climate, has the skill to make it happen.  However, there will always be a first vintage.  My other reason to stop by was to pick up a bottle of each varietal, properly packed in a “first harvest” wooden box and quickly transported to my cellar for some maturity.  I know that luck is the result of hard work.

The incarnation of wines from the Paso Robles region has been, to say the least, captivating to watch.  Some of us remember, decades ago, listening to someone speak of very good zinfandel, later finding just that along with some cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and a hint of pinot noir.  Pioneer wineries such as Adelaida Cellars, Justin and Tobin James still produce quality zinfandel, but have evolved with the newcomers toward the exploration of Rhone, Bordeaux and Spanish blends, making the Paso Robles wine profile as diverse as any region in the state.

Diversity was evident as we perused the Paso Robles Wine Country Grand Tasting event aboard the yacht, “Majestic”, docked in the Newport Beach harbor. Separated by varietals and blends, the wines were connected through quality.

The Bordeaux’

It is somewhat odd than a region gaining notoriety for producing varietals originating from southern France can comfortably create blends similar to Bordeaux in the northwest.  However, Bon Niche Cellars, located in warmer San Miguel, northeast of town, is a new boutique winery producing 1,200 cases including traditional Bordeaux blends, single varietal and a few unique releases.  Appropriately, we began with the Bon Niche Cellars  “L’Entrée” 2009 (The Entry-$45),a very fruit forward, single varietal Malbec with a nice bouquet.  With the grape’s recent prominence in the regions of South America, we can’t overlook that Malbec’s origins lie among the famous Bordeaux varietals.

Bon Niche Cellars “Fenetres” 2009

Bon Niche Cellars “l’Entree” 2009

The Bon Niche Cellars “Chemin’ 2009 (Path-$50) is a traditional left-bank Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon (40%), malbec (25%), petit verdot (20%), merlot (10%) and cabernet franc (5%), but we tasted the Bon Niche Cellars “Voyage” 2009 ($40) that pairs a Rhone grape, syrah with cabernet sauvignon and enough merlot to enhance the bouquet and lengthen the finish.

Single varietal petit verdot, not commonly found, always gets my upmost attention.  If one can handle the tannins, releases like the Bon Niche Cellars  “Fenetres” Petit Verdot 2009 (“Windows”-$35) deliver rich, creamy texture and layered flavors.  A very nice wine; imagine it after a few hours of decanting because at some point, all windows need to be opened.

Two single-varietal releases captured my interest, both from Le Vigne Winery, also located in the northeast quadrant.    The Le Vigne di Domenico Cabernet Franc 2006 ($35) and the Le Vigne di Domenico Tannat 2008 ($39)both articulated rich, ripened berry and plum flavors that were upfront from beginning to finish.  Tannat, actually from southwest France, near the Pyrenees’, is often blended with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc that soften its strong tannins and welcome the deep color and abundant flavors. Le Vigne demonstrated their range by also pouring “Ame de la Vigne”, one of the best Rhone blends of the day.

2006 Le Vigne Cabernet Franc

THE RHONES

With strong hints of spice on the nose, the Le Vigne di Domenici “Ames de la Vine” 2007 ($39) is an unusual southern Rhone blend that features syrah and petite sirah with hints of the usually dominant Grenache and mourvedre. The rich flavors are more reminiscent of a creamy pie rather than fresh berries. Experimentation with Rhone blends has led to strange bedfellows like zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon merging with traditional grapes. Among the best are those from Tablas Creek Vineyards, the patriarch of Rhone Valley wines in this region.

A mid-eighties partnership between the Perrin family of Chateau de Beaucastel and US importer Robert Haas led to the purchase of the 120-acre vineyards, chosen as similar terrior to the Chateaunef –du-Pape, producer of arguably the best southern Rhone wines.  Today, wines from Tablas Creek Vineyards are well rated and annually designated on many top lists.  With much anticipation of tasting the Tablas Creek Vineyard “Espirit de Beaucastel” 2009 ($55), their flagship award-winning wine, this pouring also featured the Tablas Creek Vineyard “Cotes de Tablas” 2009 ($30), a Grenache dominant blend, awarded 93 pts. by Wine Spectator magazine.  The “Cotes de Tablas” begins with a very fruity bouquet followed by wonderfully balanced flavors with a hint of cinnamon on the finish. The mourverdre based “Espirit de Beaucastel” is a more earthy, spice-driven wine, using grenache and syrah to offer full fruit flavors throughout.

Not to be out done by the reds, Tablas Creek Vineyards releases several white Rhone blends led by another award winner, the Tablas Creek Vineyards “Espirit de Beaucastel” Blanc ($40), a roussane dominant blend with support from Grenache blanc and picpoul blanc, a rare Rhone grape that adds a citric acidity.  In total Tablas Creek produces over 15 single varietal and blended wines, almost all rated above 90 pts and accessible, making it a priority while exploring the nectar of our central coast Rhone Rangers.

Among many fine new wineries present, my personal take-away was Terry Hoage Vineyards, an organically farmed Westside vineyard where Hoage and his wife Jennifer undertake the Rhone-making duties, citing a mentor that caught my attention.  In earlier years, Justin Smith, who arguably produces this nations top Rhone blends at nearby Saxum Vineyards, produced some wines for Terry a decade ago, conveying a minimalist approach to winemaking that the Hoage’s have adopted.

2010 Terry Hoage Vineyards “The Gap” Cuvee Blanc

A very balanced white blend, the 2010 Terry Hoage Vineyards “The Gap” ($38) uses over one-third picpoul blanc to create a tropical “tartness” combined with floral and orchard fruit essence by Grenache blanc and roussanne to create multiple flavors, foreshadowing their profile.   The full-bodied 2009 Terry Hoage “The Hedge” Syrah ($50), a single-varietal northern Rhone style release exhibited smoky, earthy aromas and flavors with hints of chocolate on a long finish, clearly one of the best syrah I have experienced this year.  Similar kudos go to the 2009 Terry Hoage “46” ($50), a syrah-grenache split, scoring a “triple-double” in flavor, texture and balance.

2009 Terry Hoage “The Hedge” Syrah

Partial to Grenache, the 2009 Terry Hoage “The Pick” Grenache Cuvee’ ($50) delivered on all fronts with flavors ranging from white pepper to ripened berries to chocolate on the finish.  Terry Hoage Vineyards was a very pleasant discovery and provides an opportunity to access some top tier Rhone blends, not available from others such as Saxum.

In yet another discovery at the Newport Beach event, Calcareous Vineyard, located on Peachy Canyon Road on the Westside, was pouring 2008 Calcareous Vineyard “Tres Violet” ($38), a syrah-based “GSM” blend, arguably the best of the showcase.  The initial perfumed aromas preview very fruit forward  “violets” with a nice, lingering texture.  Likewise the 2008 Calcareous Vineyard Syrah ($34)exudes very nice floral qualities combining with earthy tones and rich vanilla, to create a full-bodied wine with soft flavor

Calcareous Vineyards “Tres Violet” 2008

THE RIOJA AND DOURO BLENDS

 The international trend continues with the inclusion of Spanish and Portuguese blends, both surging in production and popularity worldwide in the past decade as well as blends, unique among themselves and to the region.

Sourcing her grapes from vineyards throughout the central coast and Napa valley, Dorothy Schuler, winemaker and co-owner of Bodegas Paso Robles specializes in varietals from Spain and Portugal to create some wonderful single and specialty blended wines utilizing the likes of tempranillo, graciano and bastardo from Spain and touriga and tinta cao from Portugal.  Beginning with a white blend boasting 40% malvasia Bianca, one would anticipate the sweetness of a dessert wine.  Contrary to the assumption that Grenache blanc would only heighten the sweetness, it actually enhances the floral, perfume bouquet in the 2009 Bodegas Paso Robles “Donna Blanca” ($18), providing enough crisp dryness to effectively balance the wine.

Next up was the wonderfully complex 2007 Bodegas Paso Robles “Viv Tu” Tempranillo ($26) from the locally renowned French Camp Vineyard.  A pleasantly unusual floral and spice hint in the bouquet and palate followed by anise and black cherry on the finish best defines this good value.

We also compared 2007 and 2008 vintages of their “Vaca Negra”, very different blends with different varietals tied together with an earthy softness.  The 2007 Bodegas Paso Robles “Vaca Negra” ($26) equally combines the spice of tempranillo with the fruitiness of Mouvedre for well-balanced wine with rich texture.  While Mourvedre sealed it’s reputation in southern France, it and Grenache originated in Spain where they are known as Monastrall and Granacha respectively.  The recently released 2008 Bodegas Paso Robles “Vaca Negra” ($26) adds 21% Grenache to the blend creating a soft, rich “fruit bomb”

Unavailable at the tasting, I am intrigued by the 2003 Bodegas Paso Robles “Iberia” ($44), a blend of Spanish and Portuguese grapes pairing tempranillo with rare graciano, touriga and tinta cao, sourced from the Napa Valley. The rioja region in northeast Spain gave us our first introductions to the tempranillo grape and the touriga and tinto cao, used in the world’s great ports, are, as consumers will soon be aware, part of an evolution in new, non-port single varietal and blended wines from Portugal.

Another interesting wine is the 2007 Bodegas Paso Robles “Pimenteiro” ($32), based from the old world port grape, bastardo, known for full fruit flavors and spice, from vineyards in Tres Pinos, south of Hollister in San Benito County.  We would all be hard pressed to find another “bastardo” wine in California, at least in the short-term.

THE OTHERS

Three wineries with fairly eclectic profiles, a local icon, a seasoned veteran and a newcomer, all with a diverse palate, are worthy of mention here. Since 1979, Eberle Winery, a staple among eastside Paso wineries, has produces the best cabernet sauvignon in the entire region.  The 2007 Eberle Winery Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($34)maintains that status receiving a gold medal from the prestigious San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition and high recommendations from many periodicals.  Very integrated flavors currants, black

2007 Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon

cherry and mocha throughout.

Before the Cabernet Sauvignon came a taste of the 2010 Eberle Winery Viognier Mill Road Vineyard ($23), a very nice summer wine with beautifully soft integrated flavor and loads of butterscotch and, of course, the 2008 Eberle Winery Zinfandel, Steinbeck and Wine-Bush Vineyards ($26), expressing well-balanced, complex flavors indicative of fine Zinfandel from this area that are drinking well now. Aside from a myriad of fine wines, the winery cave tour is also recommended.

Located in the southeast quadrant near Templeton, Victor Hugo Winery, producing about 5,000 cases annually, has created a varied assortment of wines for over a decade including the 2008 Victor Hugo Estate Petite Sirah ($22), expressing nice pepper, pungent herb aromas and soft, concentrated flavors that linger.  Also recommended is the 2009 Victor Hugo Estate “Opulence” ($28) an unusual cabernet franc dominant Bordeaux blend with diminishing contributions from cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot, malbec and merlot. They definitely created very good, soft-layered flavors that would pair well with hearty meats and pasta.

Sure, “Vines on the MaryCrest” is a catchy name for a new Paso winery, but quality is always subjects to proof.  Born from passion and respect for the land, winemaker Victor Abascal and wife Jennifer’s wines have received accolades from their early vintages.   The 2007 Vines on the MaryCrest “Round Midnight” ($25) caught my attention because it is a syrah-dominant Rhone blends as well as the fact that it bears the name of a favorite jazz classic. Highly spiced bouquet and flavors make this wine a suitable pair with spicy meats.

Receiving multiple awards from the San Francisco Chronicle and other respected wine competitions, the 2009 Vines on the MaryCrest “My Generation” ($27), a unique blend of zinfandel (48%), syrah (29%), mourvedre (12%) and petite sirah (12%), introducing 55-year old zinfandel vines to the Rhone world resulting in highly concentrated, balanced fruit flavors. Giving homage to Victor’s experience as a technical engineer in the music industry, the 2010 Vines on the MaryCrest “Summertime” Rose’, another release bearing the name of a classic tune, is another atypical blend of Grenache, mourvedre, tempranillo and zinfandel, reminding us that rose’ can be complex and layered.

It is difficult to keep up with the sheer number of new wineries that are emerging in the Paso Robles region.  Events like the Paso Robles Wine Country  Grand Tasting in Newport Beach intend to expose new and established wineries to the world.  When many of us predicted tremendous wine growth in the region, we couldn’t imagine the diversity of the terrior and the talent that would invest in it.  The year 2012 is time to branch out from our traditional, comfortable favorites and explore the depths and diversity and a region that continues to expand in size and stature.

"Wine of the Year"

As someone who enjoys lists, Wine Spectator magazine’s annual release of the year’s most exciting wines is highly anticipated, providing a plethora of information on current trends and vintages, both domestic and throughout the world.  Stories boasting the quality recent vintages for Sonoma County, Napa Valley, France’s Rhone Valley and Tuscany played out through their dominance on the list, generating nearly half the wines.  The prestigious top ten wines included two pinots from Sonoma, an exciting new Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon, three French and two Italian blends.

No stranger to the list during the past decade, the Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2009 ($52), a wine for which I am very familiar, was the WS “2011 Wine of the Year”. The story of the emergence of Dan Kosta and Michael Browne as premier producers of pinot noir is not one of pedigree or years of apprentice in the region of Burgundy.  It’s simply the story of a couple of guys with nothing but desire, who plunged into winemaking and learned as they went along to ultimately discover their identity in the depth, richness and elegance usually distinguished in the great Burgundian treasures.

In 2011, Kosta Browne produced 11 pinots, most exclusively from esteemed vineyards such as Amber Ridge and Kanzler in the Russian River Valley. With all the leading single-vineyard releases, ironically, the top wine combines grapes from three different vineyards near the northern Sonoma coast and is, at $52, one of their most moderately priced wines. Not new to the WS list, this is the third vintage to reach the top ten since 2006.  Although my two bottles will remain in rest for at least another year, I have enjoyed the last five vintages and found extraordinary richness, “heavy on the tongue” creamy texture, concentrated, candied flavors and long finishes with each.  For those of us that follow California Pinot Noir, this 2011 coronation for Kosta Browne was only at matter of time.

#5 Dehlinger Pinot Noir RRV 2008

There were eight representatives from the pinot noir varietal, five from Sonoma and three from Oregon. Senior editor James Laube foreshadowed great results when he named the 2009 vintage California, especially Sonoma County pinot noir as the decade’s best; possibly the best ever.  The top ranked of the varietal all had ratings of 94-95 pts and all cost about $50, including the Dehlinger Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2008 (95pt/$50) from a well-respected Sonoma winemaker with a reputation for producing very fruit forward, graceful wines.  The Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Grace Vineyard 2008, from the Willamette Valley in Oregon was the highest rated at 97 pts, but was ranked #85 because the $125 price made it much less exciting.  I was pleased to see the Rex Hill Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2009 (93pt/#38) on the list. They are very serious, hard-working winemakers and have released many nice pinots over the years.

The US contributed 41 wines, 28 from California, followed by exceptional vintages from Tuscany and France’s Rhone Valley, regions also rewarded with good recent vintages.  Outside of California, Washington state, continuing to emerge as a region of good quality and diversity, landed seven wines, Oregon four, New York state and New Mexico, one each.

If one commenced to produce a high quality, moderately priced sparkling wine, I doubt that they would seek to plant vineyards in

#43 Gruet Blanc de Noirs New Mexico

Truth or Consequences, New Mexico.  The Gruet family has planted pinot noir and chardonnay grapes at very high altitudes to bring into being the Gruet Blanc de Noirs New Mexico, scoring 90 pts from WS and retailing for $14 a bottle.  This sparkling release has generated enough curiosity to be ranked as the 43^rd most exciting wine.  With 20,000 cases made, it shouldn’t be too hard to find.

Once again, the Paso Robles region had respectable representation on the list, with the 2010 “Wine of the Year,” Saxum James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles 2008 (97pt/$75), returning at #52.  Although it had a similar “off the charts” rating with a slight price increase, it is difficult, if not nearly impossible, to generate that much excitement for more than one year.  Known for sourcing grapes to other winemakers, the 126-acre Denner Vineyard produced the Syrah grapes for the Denner “The Dirt Worshipper” Paso Robles 2008 (97pt/$45), the highest ranked Paso wine at #11.  At this point, it is intriguing, but scarce.

Tablas Creek, a winery whose Rhone blends like the “Espirit De Beaucastel” are regulars on the list, placed the Tablas Creek Cotes de Tablas Paso Robles 2009 (93pt/$30) in the 37^th spot. This Grenache-dominant blend with Syrah, counoise and mourvedre is fermented and aged in the French style and has the consistent quality expected from a pioneer of California Rhones.  Cheers for the Grenache grape; a dominant component of 10 wines on the list, four from the Golden State and six from the Rhone Valley.

Aside from the Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude 2009 (94pt/$55), a reprise of the winemaker’s 2001 top ten appearance, the most interesting and highest ranked French wine was the Domaine Huet Vouray Moelleux Clos du Bourg Premiere Trie 2009 (96pt/$69),a chenin blanc from the Loire Valley, that used wet weather-induced Botrytis rot to help

#9 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude 2009

create, as experts claim, a beautifully balanced, fruit forward white wine.

Washington State repeated an excellent 2010 performance with the inclusion of seven wines, all within the top 50. A nice balance of red wines including three Cabernet Sauvignon, two syrah and two Bordeaux blends illustrates the diversity of the great Pacific Northwest, also known for the production of Riesling.  The magazine placed the Baer “Ursa” Columbia Valley 2008 (95pt/$35), the winery’s signature merlot/cabernet franc blend, as #6, noting its consistent richness and clean flavors. In addition to the “Ursa”, wines like the Efeste Syrah Yakima Valley Jolie Bouche Boushey Vineyard 2008 (95pt/$36)have shaped Washington’s character in producing high quality at moderate prices. This syrah is very intriguing, but with only 385 cases made, it will be nearly impossible to find.

#6 Baer "Ursa" Columbia Valley Washington

There are some California wines that deserve specific mention.  Recently, I had an opportunity to enjoy a Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley 2009 (93pt/$30) paired with a wonderfully rich butternut squash soup with crème fraiche.  A recurrent member of the annual list, this is one of the best food white wines out there, always expressing layered flavors and a trademark long, rich finish.

I am partial to Santa Cruz Mountains wines, having grown up among them.  This is one reason it’s nice to witness the Mount Eden Vineyards Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains 2007 and 2008 (95pt/$55) being honored in the top 20 in back-to-back years.  Coastal influences, great low-yield vines from historical vineyards and oak influences make for a great wine in most years.

In 2010, the well-textured Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2006 was, at $40, one of the best values on the list.  Following early “buzz” upon its release, the Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley “Kathryn Hall” 2008 (96pt/$90), named for the co-founder, was designated as the #2 wine in 2011.  I had the opportunity to taste the 2007 vintage and, although a bit pricy, it is definitely a collectible if it can be found.

#4 Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino 2006

Tuscany contributed half of the Italian wines, most notably a classic Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino 2006 (96pt/$50), aged four years before release.  This wine may be available at K&L Wines/Hollywood in the near future.  With yet another example of Portugals’s port producers branching out to other reds, the Quinta Do Vallado Touriga Nacional Douro 2008 (95pt/$55), designated in the #7 spot, is a rare single-varietal (touriga nacional) wine from the north’s Douro region.

Another significant part of each year’s top wines list is who is not represented.  After resurgence the last few years, Germany listed only one Riesling and regulars, Australia and Bordeaux just two wines each. The safe bets among 2011 releases will come from Sonoma County, Tuscany, Washington State and the southern Rhone Valley.

The 2011 list clearly illustrates California’s prominence in the production of great wine.  With each new year, winemakers will monitor the weather and the soils as they care for their vines.  However, it is certain that the California “terrior” and passionate vintners will continue to prevail to create sensory wines in the grand appellations that serve them. Best to all in 2012!