Bricoleur Vineyards co-founders Mark and Elizabeth Hanson and daughter Sarah Hanson Citron are either following an aggressive business plan to turn their forty-acre estate into a hospitality retreat or willingly flying by the seat of their pants.
Bricoleur, appropriately suggested by Sarah, is a French word that refers to “one who starts building something with no clear plan, adding bits here and there, cobbling together a whole while flying by the seat of their pants.” It sums up how the vision has evolved.
Before walking through the vineyards, we were shown numerous patio spaces with vine-covered trellises, a producing grove of olive trees and a ten-thousand square foot refurbished tasting barn with full kitchen and adjacent deck overlooking a large pond. There is a rose, flower and miniature fruit tree garden all adjacent to bocce ball courts and yet another picnic space surrounded by Chinese Pistache trees, readying their Fall colors. While showing us the large vegetable garden behind the vineyards, Mark became animated and quickly began picking fresh strawberries and Sungold tomatoes for us to taste.
Available lodging ranges from an apartment above an old milking barn, a four bedroom get-a-way Vineyard House to a nine thousand square foot Estate villa that sleeps ten and has everything from sauna, steam room and eight-seat movie theater.
The property is impressive and the user opportunities are as bountiful as the gardens. However, the sustainability of the entire effort will hinge on the success of their core mission: to make exceptional wine. They are well on their way.
With the purchase of the Russian River Valley estate, the Hansons inherited twenty-one acres of good pinot noir and chardonnay stock and their forty-acre Kick Vineyard in the Fountaingrove AVA of northeastern Santa Rosa is the source of sauvignon blanc, viognier and a rose’ of grenache aptly called, “Flying By The Seat Of Our Pants.”
In 2017, soon after establishing Bricoleur Vineyards, the Hanson’s added renowned winemaker Cary Gott and his forty years of experience to the team. Gott is known for creating balanced, well-structured wines that often express unique character in traditional varietals.
We sat down with Mark, Sarah and Hospitality Director Chris Richard and began by tasting two wines from their Fountaingrove vineyard: the 2018 Bricoleur Kick Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ($25) and the whole-cluster pressed 2018 Bricoleur Kick Vineyard Viognier ($30). Viognier has a tendency to all taste the same, but the orange blossom and floral hints on the nose, the tropical fruit flavors and lingering finish made this one distinct.
A comparison of two very different Russian River Valley chardonnay releases followed, beginning with the 2017 Bricoleur Unoaked Chardonnay Russian River Valley ($30) that still had a creamy texture due to sur lie aging and the addition of five percent viognier. At the opposite spectrum, the Bricoleur Chardonnay Russian River Valley ($35), aged in thirty-five percent new French oak with full malolactic fermentation has exceptional texture, but is balanced with complex flavors of butterscotch and baked stone fruits.
A blend of four clones from the estate vineyard, the 2017 Bricoleur Pinot Noir Russian River Valley ($45) is another high quality release from the appellation, fully aromatic with hints of white pepper, spice and cola that sells for half the price of similar wines.
We concluded with the 2017 Bricoleur Old Vine Zinfandel ($40) from an Alexander Valley vineyard that was lush and expressive without being an overpowering “fruit bomb.”
Bricoleur strives to be a lifestyle brand with a goal of ninety percent direct to consumer sales. After soft openings and a few events in the Fall, they promise a full range of activities in 2020 like yoga paired with wine tasting. Exercise, fresh organic food and good wine are all good reasons to pursue Bricoleur.