Category Archives: Wine

April 27, 2013

Tablas Creek Winery

There are many reasons to like the Tablas Creek Winery other than the high quality of the wines they produce. As a patriarch that introduced Rhone varietals to the region, they continue to lead with sustainable farming and viticulture resulting in an acclaimed palate of wines and a commitment to the community.

When east coast wine importer Robert Haas combined a long-time friendship with the Perrin family of Chateau de Beaucastel and a desire to move west to produce Rhone varietals, he eventually discovered a 120-acre site in the hills west of Paso Robles with the same terroir as Chateaunef-du-Pape, in the heart of the Rhone Valley. A few years prior, the two families

Tablas Creek Winery

formed a partnership and began the arduous task of importing traditional Rhone vines of mourvedre, syrah, grenache, quarantined while they passed multi-year testing by the USDA.

Those familiar with this area realize that as growing season days can be hot, the nights can be significantly cooler and, speaking to local winemakers, one understands their commitment to the rugged, limestone-laden vineyards. This is the terroir of the Rhone.

Easy to say now, but this partnership took on the risk and the challenge to pioneer the finest region for Rhone varietals anywhere outside of France and the second Tablas Creek generation intends to search for the perfect blend through organic, biodynamic farming and the finest stock they can obtain. Tablas Creek obtained organic certification for their 120-acre estate vineyard in 2003, began farming 20 acres Biodynamically in 2010 and is progressively converting the entire operation that way.

Jason Haas

Last month I sat down with Jason Haas, son of the founder, whose first summer job was working for Chateau de Beacastel in France. By comparison, mine was at IHOP. These early experiences led to an advanced degree from Cornell, a management stint with a tech company and, eventually, back to the vineyards where he is involved in many facets of the Tablas Creek Winery operation.

Looking quite different since my last visit, the winery site now has a new, contemporary tasting room facility with outdoor porch, solar panels, alpacas and sheep surrounded by those rugged, limestone-laden vineyards.

Tablas Creek blends basically fit into three brands, Espirit de Beaucastel, Cotes de Tablas and Patelin de Tablas, each with a red and white, as well as other Rose’, single varietals and some elite, small productions blends. Among many impressive wines, it was reviews of the Espirit de Beaucastel in various periodicals that peaked my interest, including numerous Top 100 lists.

2010 Tablas Creek “Espirit de Beaucastel”

The mourvedre-based Espirit de Beaucastel 2010 ($55) is Tablas Creek’s, highly praised, flagship wine, consistently reviewed in the mid-90 point range. In addition to the richness, mourvedre, in this vintage, contributes the meaty, savory flavors while fruit is expressively delivered by Grenache and syrah, comprising half of the blend, along with a touch of counoise to tame the syrah, a traditional Rhone role.

Both mourvedre and counoise grapes are native to Spain and were imported to the Chateaunef-du-Pape region in the 12^th Century, when the papacy was in Avignon. The Espirit de Beaucastel 2010 from Paso Robles will be a pleasant introduction to anyone seeking to discover why Rhone blends have been coveted for centuries.

While flavors of honey are indicative to roussanne-based white blends, I found a nice minerality on the nose through the long finish with the 2010 Espirit de Beaucastel Blanc ($40), directly attributed to the limestone in the vineyard soils. Once the roussanne/grenache blanc blend opened up in the glass, the tropical and orchard fruits emerged on the nose and palate. The Grilled Scallops with Grilled Apples and Honey Drizzle, a recipe found on the Tablas Creek Winery website, served as a perfect pair with my bottle.

In the shadow of the Espirit de Beaucastel for years, the

Cotes de Tablas 2009 shared the spotlight when named to the Wine Spectator magazine’s Top 100 Wines of 2011. As we walked through the 120-acre certified organic vineyard on a cold morning last month, Jason pointed out a slight amount of late season frost damage to the new, delicate leaves. A late-season frost in 2011 ultimately resulted in lower yield and,

2011 Cote de Tablas

according to staff, produced the Grenache dominant Cotes de Tablas 2011 ($30), a wine that rivals the 2009 vintage in richness and the expression of fruit and spice. With over 75% of the blend comprised from Grenache (49%) and syrah (28%), the flavors of deeply ripened fruit and sweet spice were present when my first glass opened up. This wine reminds me why I prefer Grenache-dominant blends.

Nearly equal parts viognier. Grenache blanc, roussanne and marsanne, Cotes de Tablas Blanc 2011 ($27) benefits from all grapes with a floral nose, rich orchard fruit flavors and a nice minerality throughout, courtesy of the latter two grapes. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks adds crispness to its complexity.

The winery’s new Patelin de Tablas series surfaced in 2010 with the goal to produce high-quality, value-priced wines based from syrah and Grenache blanc by sourcing some grapes from as many as 15 other local vineyards. Priced at $20 each, the 2011 Patelin de Tablas ($20) and 2011 Patelin de Tablas Blanc ($20) are both nicely structured, fruit forward wines that have been recognized through the “bang for your buck” they deliver.

2012 Tablas Creek “Dianthus” Rose’

Not respected for years, the age of new, complex rose’ is well upon us. The mourvedre-grenache-counoise blend, 2012 Dianthus Rose’ ($27) has a wonderfully complex nose but the vibrant flavors of wild berries, pomegranate and citrus are extraordinary, awarded 90 points by Wine Spectator.

The remainder of the Tablas Creek palate includes special varietal specific wines and low production blends that are both rare and eminent including 2011 Petit Manseng ($35), 2011 Picpoul Blanc ($27), 2010 Counoise ($35) and a premier blend, the

2010 Tablas Creek Petit Manseng

2010 Panoplie ($95) featuring the best, hand selected mourvedre, Grenache and syrah aged together in one 1,200-gallon oak cask to produce 600 cases. They are all astounding wines, but rarely available to those outside of their Vinsider Wine Club

members who have committed to in-depth exploration

The single varietal that we recently tasted was the 2010 Tannat, a grape predominate in the Pyrenees Mountains of Basque country that is also used with Bordeaux blenders like cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc.

2010 Tablas Creek Tannat

A carnivore’s delight, the 2010 Tannat ($36), at first glance looks deep and dark, like it belongs in a large glass next to your favorite steak. Expect some tannins, anticipate the full berry flavors, but focus on those earthy, smoked nuances that balances and give identity to the wine. My next bottle will be given a year to evolve.

The Paso Rhone Rangers offer a great story, bringing old World wines from southern France literally to our doorstep. There in the beginning, leading for the future, Tablas Creek Winery is continuously striving to achieve success by doing it the right way.

Located deep into the Westside foothills on Adelaida Road, the tasting room is open from 10am-5pm daily and should definitely be a scheduled stop on your next journey to the Paso Robles region.

Tablas Creek Tasting Room on Adelaida Road

Leave a comment | tags: chateau de beaucastel, jason haas, perrin family, rhone varietals | posted in Wine

April 26, 2013

Collecting Wine And Why

By Lyle W. Norton

Establishing a wine collection is far more than selecting some great bottles from an afternoon tasting but certainly does not have need of the time, money and research to acquire rare vintages. It requires some education of both the mind and palate because beyond the labels, specific varietals and ratings, the crescendo of wine is all about taste and the color, aroma and texture that precede it.

Taste is always upfront in my pursuit of wines, searching for the perfect balance in fruit, spice and earthy flavors. However, collecting is usually constrained by budget and many collectors agree, “Once you’ve gone Burgundy, you can’t go back.” As great as Burgundian wines are, collecting the “grand cru” would, inevitably, lead to bankruptcy for most of us. Fortunately, wines from our local California neighborhood have the quality and accessibility to satiate a collector’s appetite.

The main factor surrounding my collection is that I am an occasional wine drinker. My wife, declaring war on sugar some 15 year ago, no longer takes pleasure in wine and I am not going to open a nice bottle for one glass. The result is a small collection, quality over quantity that can be shared with others, the best way to enjoy the attributes of wine.

2009 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast

Sharing is wonderful, but the goals of any cellar reflect the individual tastes and diverse varietals enjoyed by the collector. Surprises and opportunities aside, the following guides the search for wine within my budget.

#1: Explore the finest pinot noir from California and

Oregon

With few exceptions, the world’s optimum pinot noir is produced in Burgundy France, Oregon and California. The core of my pinot noir comes from three California producers, Kosta Browne Winery, Williams Selyem Winery from Sonoma County and Seasmoke Cellars from the Santa Rita Hills in northern Santa Barbara County. There are enough diverse releases from specific vineyards and terroir among the three to provide for an impressive array of pinot noir. Among my Kosta Browne pinot’s, the 2009 Sonoma Coast, 2008 Russian River Valley and the 2007 Sonoma Coast were all among top ten wines on Wine Spectator magazines annual list, the 2009 named “2011 Wine of the Year.”

2009 Seasmoke “Ten” Pinot Noir

My routine is to “lay down” the new vintages for a year, making the older ones available for consumption. My 2009 Seasmoke “Ten” Pinot Noir is now a prized bottle in the “drink/hold” status waiting a special occasion while the 2010 and 2011 vintages can rest. It takes patience to receive an allocation of these great wines, but the rewards to your palate are worth it.

Other pinot noir wines are discovered while tasting in other regions, none better than the Willamette Valley of Oregon. In 2012, I acquired two bottles of 2010
Bergstrom Wines “De Lanciotti Vineyard” Pinot Noir which are drinkable 2012-2022. While one bottle will rest longer, the other, consistent with my goals, is earmarked to celebrate my son’s completion of his MBA in June. In researching ongoing reviews of Oregon pinot noir, I follow the vintages of wineries such as Argyle, Ponzi, Evening Land, Penner-Ash, Archery Summit and others that are all capable of producing memorable

Bergstrom “De Lancelotti Vineyard” Pinot Noir 2010

wines.

#2: White wines with food.

Although there are an abundance of fine white wines to choose from, chardonnay adds to food like no other varietal and, given that I no longer eat meat, it will receive expanded shelf space in my cellar. Vintage to vintage, my chardonnay assortment includes bottles of Foley Estate “Barrel Select” Chardonnay, Mt. Eden Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains and, most recently, Seasmoke “Grand Cru” Chardonnay, a superb first vintage from the venerated producer of Santa Rita Hills pinot noir.

Violating my own rule of diversity, these wines are very similar in style and share my highest standard in color, bouquet, oak, flavor, texture and finish. I recently shared my only bottle of the new Seasmoke “Grand Cru” with friends and it immediately became the topic of discussion for the next several

Foley Estate “Barrel Select” Chardonnay

minutes, including the question, “How do we obtain some of this?” Their answer was revealed, days later, when my annual allocation letter granted me permission to purchase four bottles in 2013. As good as the Seasmoke is, the French “Grand Cru” designation is meaningless in the US.

Aside from these wines, I am always looking for a good bargain on an authentic “Grand Cru” from Burgundy where chardonnay is the only white grape permitted to be grown.

2005 Vincent Girardin Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Vielles Vignes

Burgundian white wines are elegant and fruit-forward, distinguishing themselves with a soft minerality on the finish. My current prized bottle is a 2005 Vincent Girardin Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Vielles Vignes. A brief review on reading French labels tells us this wine comes from grapes within a walled-in (clos) vineyard in the village of Vougeot, they are old vines (vielles vignes) and Vincent Girardin produces it. Actually, the vineyard, at 125 acres, is a very large “clos” vineyard, the only one in the village.

Other “pairing” white wines that consistently have shelf space in my compilation are the Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc, the Fiddlehead “Goosebury” Sauvignon Blanc and well-reviewed sauvignon blanc from the Marlborough region of New Zealand, when nice, pungent flavors of lemongrass are needed to enhance a dish like well-prepared, rare hamachi.

#3: Rhone Blends and Value Cabernet Sauvignon

The great blends of France’s Rhone Valley, featuring Grenache, syrah, mourvedre and other varietals are being replicated by California “Rhone Rangers,” free to add their own creative twist to centuries of tradition. New and established wineries, such as Tablas Creek Vineyard, Linne Calodo Cellars and Terry Hoage Vineyards

from the Paso Robles region offer great Rhone blends to choose from. An annual favorite and a consistent reflection of the local terroir is the Adelaida Cellars “Version” Rhone

Adelaida “Version” Red
Rhone Blend

Blend, legendary to the area.

Not being the main varietal focus of my collection, budgeting for the Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is, with few exceptions, not an option. I enjoy exploring value-priced Cabernet from other regions. The best example of stand-alone great flavor for under $35 is the Eberle Estate Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles’ eastside. Of course, the pricier Eberle Reserve Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is a good collectible to age for a special occasion. With 10-15 cabernet sauvignon and Bordeaux varietals, vintages 2002-2006, in my cellar, acquiring new ones before enjoying current inventory is a low priority.

Eberle Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Bottled

#4: Discoveries

Allowing flexibility in my collection for special wines that I come across at tasting events, classes, winery tours etc. is a must. Generally, these wines fill in varietals like merlot, petite sirah, syrah, zinfandel, riesling and others that comprise one-third of my collection.

Let me end with a story that has bought laughter and tears for two decades. Several years ago, our family hosted an exchange student from Germany; just about the time my interest in wine in its adolescence. The next year, he returned as our guest and presented me, from his parents collection, with two bottles of 1990 Chateau Latour and a 1990 Chateau Margaux. I knew they

1990 Grand Vin de Chateau Latour

were nice French wines, not realizing that these Bordeaux giants are, vintage to vintage, arguably the world’s finest wines. The 1990 Chateau Latour was Wine Spectator’s “1993 Wine of the Year” with a 100- point rating. To give some perspective of the value of these wines, the recently released 2009 vintage sells in the range of $1500 per bottle. We managed to drink them all, my only memory is sharing the Chateau Margaux with my wife on our anniversary at the old Downtown Bistro on Lancaster Blvd, not completely understanding its complexity, but agreeing it was “liquid velvet” to our palates. The irony of the tale is that, knowing what I know today, I would be reluctant to ever open them, facing the reality of no longer having two of the world’s great wines. Ultimately, wine collections are to enjoy with others, not displayed on a shelf.

Leave a comment | tags: earthy flavors, santa rita hills, seasmoke cellars, williams selyem winery | posted in Wine

March 12, 2013

Pinot Fest ’13

By Lyle W. Norton

Large wine events are most often over-crowded with an overwhelmingly number of represented wineries and more people having fun and supporting a charity then seriously tasting new pinot noir releases. Thus, my strategy for “PinotFest 2013”, held at the Alta Dena Country Club near Pasadena, was to work the room and select a few new wineries to explore. Because they are contemporary and boasting high ratings, I started with a relatively new winery that is producing wines in the Russian River Valley and other prominent Sonoma County appellations

Sojourn Cellars began in 2001, a collaboration of two friends committed to producing distinctive pinot noir in a region that, arguably, leads the world. CraigHaserot and winemaker Erich Bradley source their grapes from vineyards north of Sonoma, near Cotati, where I watched my uncle race formula cars in the early sixties. Today, we tasted three single vineyard pinots, one asserting a 96-point rating from the Pinot Report.

We began with the 2009 Sojourn Cellars Sangiocomo Vineyard Pinot Noir ($54/96), a wine that put across an earthy, dark fruit nose followed by complex flavors and a rich, creamy texture. Not a bad beginning. The second pour was a pinot noir from Gap’s Crown Vineyard whose out-sourced grapes are used in many fine wines. The 2009 Sojourn Cellars Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir ($54/95) comes from a hilly slope with stressed soil pushing the grapes to fully ripen, producing those jammy, concentrated flavors that are nicely structured.

The very earthy 2009 Sojourn Cellars Rodger’s Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir was actually my favorite of the three, adding mushrooms and savory herbs to the concentrated dark fruit flavors. As I finished the server leaned forward and whispered, “Do you want to taste our dark pinots,”

Many winemakers could not resist “bootlegging” some of their other varietals into “Pinot Fest 2013” and, in this instance; it was two new Cabernet Sauvignon wines from extraordinary vineyards that were about to steal the show.

The Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard is royalty among the many great Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon vineyards. The name adorns the label of many great $100+ wines from the Napa Valley floor in Rutherford. The 2009 Sojourn Cellars Beckstoffer Goerges III Cabernet Sauvignon ($95/) was, of course, very full-bodied with deep dark cherry flavors and luscious textures, a wine to savor.

A late frost, prompting a decision to cut back clusters, reducing volume, ultimately led to a wine rich both in structure and flavor that was one of the “hits” of the show. A suitable descriptive adverb for the 2009 Sojourn Cellars Home Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($48) is “opulent,” with complexity and structure of wines twice the price. For those serious about cabernet sauvignon, this is a find.

Winemaker Kenneth Volk, born and raised in San Marino, CA has been a fixture in the central coast wine culture for decades, having started Wild Horse Winery and Vineyards over thirty years ago, ultimately

Kennet Volk

producing 150,000 cases annually. Now operating in the Santa Maria Valley AVA, north of Santa Barbara, Volk is producing pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay under the label that bears his name, his signature. Today, we tasted two single-vineyard pinot noir and a few “bootlegged” varietals.

From a small township in the Santa Maria Valley, the 2009 Kenneth Volk “Garey” Vineyard” Pinot Noir ($48) was, clearly, one of the notable wines poured, an atypically huge wine with extracted flavors that can pair with a broader range of food. Aside from the influences of French oak, the warm location of this vineyard allows for full ripening of the grape.

For pure elegance in the pinot noir tradition, the Kenneth Volk “Sierra Madre Vineyard” Pinot Noir ($48) has floral and spice aromas and delivers a nice, flavorful finish. Volk’s pinot noir wines are well crafted, respecting the tradition of the Burgundian grape but willing to push the envelope to higher levels.

2007 Kenneth Volk “Garey Vineyard” Pinot Noir

A close look reveals that the Paso Robles region is quietly producing some nice cabernet sauvignon, adding to an already expansive range of varietals that thrive in the area. One example is the 2008 Kenneth Volk Cabernet Sauvignon ($36), sourced from multiple vineyards in the region. Again, French oak is used to create complex smoky flavors that continue through the finish.

2008 Kenneth Volk Cabernet Sauvignon

At 86 years and claimed to be one of the oldest California plantings, the mourvedre vines from the Enez Vineyard produce low-yield, small cluster fruit, resulting in intense flavors. The 2009 Kenneth Volk Enez Vineyard Lime Kiln Valley Mourvedre ($36) earns the prize as the pleasant surprise of the tasting. The flavors also linger on the palate.

A decade since the Alexander Payne film, “Sideways” put the Hitching Post restaurant and the region on the map, the eating place and their fine selection of pinot noir, expressive of the local terroir are thriving.

In the late seventies, Frank Ostini Jr. the co-owner of the Hitching Post family business and friend Gray Hartley began making wine at

Frank Ostini Jr. and Gray Hartley

their home. Soon, they were making wines for specific cellars and eventually the Hartley-Ostini Hitching Post label, exclusively pinot noir, was born.

Personal wine labels, created under the wing of a successful restaurant often fall below expectations of serious wine drinkers. This is NOT the situation at Hartley-Ostini Hitching Post wines. They are the real deal, sourcing grapes from the best vineyards because the partners agree that is where great wines are made. Having met Frank Ostini, Jr. at a Glendale tasting years ago, Gray Hartley was on hand at this event to guide me through their new releases.

Combining warm Santa Maria Valley and cool Santa Rita Hills vineyards, the flagship Hartley-Ostini Hitching Post “Highliner” Pinot Noir combines the best barrels of the best vineyards to achieve balanced, complex flavors and the overall elegance typical to the region.

From Fiddlestix, Sanford and Benedict and Clos Pepe, three notable Santa Rita Hills vineyards, the 2009 Hartley-Ostini Hitching Post “St. Rita’s Earth Pinot Noir($34) is very fruit forward for those who prefer a healthy dose of black cherry flavors. Two single-vineyard

Hartley-Ostini Hitching Post “Highliner” Pinot Noir

pinots from the Fiddlestix and Bien Nacido vineyards both have the structure to become excellent wines in time.

Gray’s “bootleg” offering was the reasonably priced Hartley-Ostini “Big Circle” Syrah ($20) sourced, once again, from warm and cool climate vineyards throughout the region. The bouquet hints of the wine’s complex flavors that don’t disappoint on the finish.

Recognition also goes out to the new releases of pinot noir from the Brian Loring Wine Company. The technique of sourcing grapes from the best vineyards in California to produce world-class pinot noir has served him and us well. If you enjoy pinots, you will take pleasure in any wine from the Loring Wine Company.

00202 LWC 2009 Pinot Keefer Ranch 750ML Label

2009 Loring Wine Company “Garys’ Vineyard” Pinot Noir

All in all, attending the “Pinot Fest 13” event led to some new discoveries and opportunities to do more follow-ups at their respective wineries and vineyards. Ironically, my favorite wine of the event was the “bootlegged” 2009 Sojourn Cellars Home Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the “dark pinots.”

Leave a comment | tags: cabernet sauvignon wines, coastal appellations, fruit flavors, russian river valley, santa rita hills, sojourn cellars | posted in Wine

February 28, 2013

Don’t Walk Away, Viognier

By Lyle W. Norton

The French grape viognier burst onto the California scene in the mid-nineties and was pondered as the next “wine noir” to supplant Queen Chardonnay. While it did not meet those expectations, viognier plays a vital role in blends on three continents and has realized success as a single varietal wine in the United States with nearly 3000 acres planted.

Modern-day viognier, pronounced “Vee-ohn-yay”, emerged from the small northern Rhone village of Condrieu, where it is the only grape permitted. Known for floral, aromatic bouquets and concentrated orchard fruits, it has gained appeal in California as a single varietal Elsewhere, it is most identified as a vital component of the famous Rhone Valley blends and, more recently, of those in south Australia.

Adding color and robust aromas, viognier teams up, in varying degrees with marsanne, roussane, counnoise and Grenache blanc to create the renowned whites from Chateaunef-du-pape in the south and Hermitage in the northern Rhone Valley. While these are timeless wines, they do require some research to assess quality and availability. Fortunately, California Rhone blends can provide an excellent alternative.

Two blends, produced on the Central Coast, are more readily available and can aptly help one discover what the thrill is all about. From cool Monterey County, the flagship 2010 Treana White ($23) of the Hope Family Wines collection equally combine marsanne and viognier to produce beautiful jasmine bouquets and stone fruits on the palate. Aged separately in French oak, it has a honey-like rich texture that will actually improve with age.

A rare viognier-dominant Rhone blend, the 2010 Tablas Creek Cotes de Tablas Blanc ($27), from Paso Robles’ patriarch of California Rhones, consists of 54% viognier, 30% Grenache blanc, some marsanne and roussane, all aged in stainless steel tanks. Of course, this wine has a serious nose to accompany a rich texture of peach and melon, adding a nice minerality on the finish.

In the northern Rhone Valley, viognier and syrah vines are often inter-planted (intermingled) and blended together to enhance the final syrah. Adding viognier, typically far less than the legal limit of 20%, with the red grape seems to enhance the color and bouquet, adding peach and spice to the traditional dark berry flavors.

Recent excitement for viognier/syrah blends is coming from south Australia where several top-of-the-line; highly rated shiraz producers are adding 2%-12% viognier to their best wine with terrific success. Rarely inter-planted in Australian vineyards, the two grapes are blended before fermentation, a technique called co-fermentation. While the characteristics of viognier can easily over-power or alter the syrah flavor profile, when in balance the enhanced color and aromas are significant.

A moderately available, value-priced shiraz/viognier blend, from Yalumba, one of Australia’s oldest family-owned wineries, the Yalumba Eden Valley Shiraz + Viognier 2008 ($20) is a nicely balanced wine with aromas of violet preceding concentrated dark fruit and spice flavors. As for a 100% viognier, I recently purchased a Yalumba Y Series Viognier Barossa Valley 2012 ($13) at Cost Plus World Market. As with previous vintages, this wine expresses more of a honeysuckle bouquet and combines soft tropical and stone fruits through the finish

In California, viognier have traditionally flourished in the Paso Robles, Santa Lucia Highlands, Edna Valley and Russian River Valley appellations. In recent years, as with most varietals, experimentation has broadened the appeal of viognier into new terroir. A brief trip last year to Calaveras County introduced me to a few wines that caught my attention.

Located in the middle of a wooded area just beyond the main street in Murphy’s, California, Val du Vino Winery sources grapes throughout the region to produce a variety of fine red and white wines. I find their 2011 Val du Vino Viognier Calaveras County Dalton Vineyard ($25), similar to previous vintages. It conveys nice honeysuckle aromas with very forward stone fruit flavors of peach and apricot and a nice finish

Adding 11% of the highly acidic picpoul grape to viognier from the Dalton Vineyard, the 2011 Twisted Oak Calaveras County Viognier ($19) maintains good balance with concentrated tropical and stone fruits and a slightly astringent finish.

Surprisingly, California is neither the only, nor necessarily the best producer of viognier in the United States. It seems that “Old Dominion,” the state of Virginia has the terroir, the will and over 100 wineries to produce highly rated viognier and a few other varietals. The soil and extended warm growing season around Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello estate allows the grape to fully ripen, exposing provocative aromas and full tropical and stone fruit flavors. This is secondhand information provides incentive to plan a trip to the Washington D.C. area.

Investigation of viognier has peaked my interest in finding new wines that reveal its characteristics, individually or in a blend. Two wines top my wish list, one a highly rated Santa Barbara County syrah and the other a rare blend. Rated in the mid-nineties, the 2008 Ojai Vineyards “Roll Ranch Vineyard” California Syrah ($40) is co-fermented with 2% viognier. Many reviews boasted those deep dark berry flavors, but all emphasized a copious floral nose.

Finding viognier in the company of marsanne or Grenache blanc is not anything out of the ordinary. They arguably, comprise the greatest white blends of them all. For these reasons, the 2011 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier ($12), an unusual blend, peaks my curiosity. Reading consistent comments like “intensely aromatic” and “added floral and spice” tells me that the 21% viognier from Lodi has tamed, to some degree, the crisp acidity of the 79% chenin blanc grapes from the Sacramento Delta.

Viognier has certainly not supplanted Chardonnay, or most white grapes as the preferred wine for California palates. However, along with the expanded production of chenin blanc, albarino, verdelho and the Rhone blend grapes, viognier stands tall as a white varietal that gives us enormously fragrant aromas and complex flavors. It’s global presence and adaptability to east and west coast climates implies that it is here to stay.

Viognier pairs well shellfish and poultry, especially recipes containing bridge ingredients like peach, pear, honey, dried flowers or piquant spices. A personal favorite is “Duck Breasts with Honey, Ginger and Lavender” from Sid Goldstein’s “The Wine Lover’s Cookbook.”

Leave a comment | tags: northern rhone, orchard fruits, stainless steel tanks, tablas creek | posted in Wine

January 13, 2013

Syrah, Shiraz, Sirah!

By Lyle W. Norton

The need to clarify, upfront, that the Syrah grape originates from the Rhone Valley of France comes from the reality that it has miraculously adapted to terroir throughout the world and the younger generation may feel it’s roots lie in South America, South Africa, Australia or California’s Central Coast. Although available as a single varietal wine in northern Rhone, its rich and fruit-forward plum flavors and spiciness are, arguably, best showcased through its long-standing partnership with Grenache, mourvedre, counoise and cinsault in creating the masterful Rhone Valley blends of Chateaunef-du-Pape, Gigondas and other nearby regions.

The diversity of syrah has led to a swell in its popularity. The deep color and ensuing flavors find it on the table with spicy South American or Mexican cuisine along with the traditional rack of lamb and other red meats. An extreme example of the range of this grape is Shiraz, it’s Australian persona that appeals to American

Mollydocker Winery vineyards

consumers.

The most simplistic way to evaluate syrah is that warmer climates bring out the more fruity flavors and cooler temperatures drives the spice, peppery nuances. Now the most produced Australian wine grape, shiraz is grown in warmer climates, such as the Barossa Valley, allowing for full ripeness and enhanced flavors. Most likely, the Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Grange 1990 was the first Australian shiraz to be named Wine Spectator magazine’s “Wine of the Year” in 1995. Through this Century, three Barossa Valley shiraz consistently turn up among the top ten wines.

A perfect example, the 2010 Schild Estate Shiraz Barossa Valley (92pt/$20), a warm climate entry-level syrah, sourced from several estate vineyards, is arguably Australia’s best value shiraz. This decades best performing Australian shiraz, the (2006-2010) Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Bella’s Garden (95 pt/$70), is a shining overview of the region, sourced from 20

2010 Schild Estate Shiraz Barossa Valley

vineyards throughout the Valley and very fruit forward.

Boasting four top 100 designations from WS since 2006, the Mollydocker Shiraz McLaren Vale “Carnival of Love” 2010 (94 pt/$90) obviously has the same rich, flavorful qualities of previous vintages that I have tasted. Of course the expensive price does diminish the appeal of an otherwise near perfect shiraz.

One of my wine goals in 2013 is to taste a flight of California syrah from San Luis Obispo County’s Alban Estate Winery, mentioned in any discussion of the state’s best. A scan of recent Wine Spectator reviews reveals that nearly half of the top rated Syrah were from Alban estate vineyards. Self-proclaimed as “the first American winery and vineyard established exclusively for Rhone varieties”, Alban has been creating superb syrah and other Rhone wines long before they appeared on my radar. Their flagship syrah seems to be the Alban Syrah Edna Valley Seymour’s Vineyard ($145) averaging 96+ among vintages in the 21st Century. The downside of Alban wines and a major obstacle to my new goal is that they are expensive and nearly impossible to find. For those seeking to expand their viticultural horizons or an appreciable investment, Alban Winery and Vineyard is a logical choice.

We have determined that the essential characteristics of syrah are the flavors of ripened plums or other dark fruit and spice, in the range of cinnamon to white pepper with climate dictating the extent of each. My issue with some of the cooler climate syrah comes from an imbalance of flavors, leading to an overbearing spice and, at times, an overly tannic finish. I find myself anticipating harshness and becoming overly delighted when it emerges softly and balanced.

To this end, I have discovered a trio of syrah wines from Bonny Doon Vineyard and Winery, each from different regions of the central coast, all with a great nose and intense fruit flavors enhanced on the finish. Randall Grahm, one of the original Rhone Rangers, first produced the Bonny Doon Syrah Bien Nacido

2008 Bonny Doon Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard

Vineyard ($42) from the esteemed Santa Maria Valley vineyard known for turning out smokey elements in the wine. Well in-balance, this 100% syrah is my choice to pair with rack of lamb.

2008 Bonny Doon Syrah Alamo Creek Vineyard

The spices in the 2008 Bonny Doon Syrah Alamo Creek Vineyard ($35) impart a smokiness that boosts the flavors to a new level. Described as an Old World style syrah, the depth of flavors makes it a favorite with hearty stews and gamey meats. The third and most current release, the 2009 Bonny Doon Syrah Chequera Vineyard ($42), originates from a warmer Paso Robles Vineyard and adds 17.2% viognier that drives the concentrated fruit flavors of blueberry and plum. Of the three, this is my choice to enjoy independent of any food on the table. A comparative tasting of the three wines can reveal distinctive characteristics that can only be

2009 Bonny Doon Syrah Chequeras Vineyard

wholly enjoyed after 1-2 hours of decanting or, at a minimum, the “screw-cap” removed.

Paso Robles is adding syrah to its repertoire of high quality zinfandel and Rhone blends. Two typically available high value/quality wines include the 2010 Eberle Winery Syrah Steinbeck Vineyard ($24), awarded 93 pts from Wine Spectator and the 2004 Le Vigne di Domenico Syrah ($42), a luscious wine that is, unquestionably, representative of full fruit flavors. However, due to the exposure given the Steinbeck syrah, the 2010 vintage is sold out at the winery and the 2004 vintage Le Vigne syrah won’t be around forever.

Another memorable 2012 syrah tasting was the 2009 Penner-Ash Oregon Syrah ($32), sourced from vineyards as far south as the Rogue Valley and east as the Columbia Gorge. Exceptionally balanced, the vanilla on the nose and palate, the rich, velvety texture and deep expressions of fruit resulted in a purchase that is

Shafer Vineyards “Relentless” Napa Valley 2008

resting in my cellar.

The syrah and petite sirah grapes are often discussed simultaneously, but for no justifiable reason. They are not related in any way other than similar sounding names. That being said, they did recently team up in the Shafer Vineyards “Relentless” Napa Valley 2008 (96 pt/$60), Wine Spectator magazines “2012 Wine of the Year”.

With a deep, inky color, a revealing bouquet and heavy texture and flavors that are accessible to most palates, petite sirah’s stock is rising. Searches for good California petite sirah can start in the northern Calaveras and Amador Counties, and extend through north Napa Valley. There are many fine wines to choose from, none with a higher price-to-quality reputation that the 2010 McManis Family Petite Sirah ($10-12). I recently found it on a list at “Bistro Nook” in Santa Monica and enjoyed the dark fruit, smokey bouquet and oak-infused, flavors of currant and raspberry, intense, yet oddly restrained. Don’t shy

2010 McManis Family Petite Sirah

away from any vintage.

Exploring the global appeal of syrah/shiraz/sirah will be my fun research project in 2013. What syrah region in the world is producing that wine that best suits my palate? I’ll keep you updated.

Top Wines of 2012 are “Relentless”

By Lyle W. Norton

Shafer “Relentless” Napa Valley 2008

Clos des Papes Chateaunef-du-Pape 2009

It began in late November, as it does each year. Wine Spectator magazine unveiled wines #10-6, then #5-1 and finally their entire 2012 top 100 list of “the year’s most exciting wines”, an apt description. If previously rated quality was the only factor, we would be surrounded by the Clos des Papes Chateaunef-du-Pape 2010 (98pt/$128) and Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Family Estate 2009 (96pt/$145), both very fine, but expensive, or the highly touted wines that are nearly impossible to find. Besides, we can’t overlook price, uniqueness or our personal preference for a specific varietal. Kudos to Wine Spectator for annually undertaking this arduous task and giving us a global snapshot of the releases in 2012. One can purchase a copy of their latest issue for the complete details or read the following synopsis from someone who enjoys analyzing national, regional and varietal trends.

Without question, my major takeaway from the list is that 2012 is the “Year of Syrah.” To prove, or at least defend my moniker, nine (36%) of the top 25 wines included syrah as a single-varietal or in a blend. To be fair, France’s Southern Rhone Valley, using syrah in their mélanges, had a good year. However, included in that same top 25 were single-varietal syrah from Paso Robles, Edna Valley and the magazine’s “2012 Wine Of The Year”, Napa Valley’s Shafer “Relentless” Napa Valley 2008 (96pt/$60), a blend of mostly syrah with 18% petite sirah. Finding the #1 wine in the Napa Valley is fairly common, the fact that it was syrah, not cabernet sauvignon, is a headline. The real story here is the meticulous winemaker Elias Fernandez.

Born to an immigrant father and locally raised mother, both farm laborers, Elias Fernandez grew up in the Napa Valley vineyards before leaving to pursue a Fullbright music scholarship at the University of Nevada, Reno. Missing his roots, he eventually transferred to the UC Davis, earning a degree in winemaking studies. Since graduation, he as worked closely with the Shafer family as an assistant before becoming the winemaker in 1994. He pushed for the expansion of syrah vineyards and was relentlessly hands-on in every aspect of the wine of the year.

Shafer winemaker Elias Fernandez

ET COSME GIGONDAS 750 ML 09, page 1 @ Preflight

Chateau de St.-Cosme Gigondas 2010

While we again see the Chateaunef-du-Pape region displayed throughout, the #4 Clos des Papes Chateaunef-du-Pape (98pt/$128), a former wine of the year and recurring top ten designee, stepped aside as the neighboring Gigondas appellation produced the #2 Chateau de St. Cosme Gigondas 2010 (95pt/$41) assuming stature as the top French wine. Certainly, at less than one-third the cost of its famous neighbor, this Grenache-based Rhone Valley blend was attractive to the judges. Demonstrating the global strength of syrah, the #3 Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Belle’s Garden 2010 (95pt/$69), one of the best 21^st Century wines, comes from the acclaimed Australian winemaker that performs miracles with the varietal.

The Reverence of Napa Valley

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley Reserve 2009

In a year of surprises, the Napa Valley maintained its supremacy with the Wine of the Year, two Cabernet Sauvignon, two merlot and a Carneros chardonnay, all from established vineyards. The #8 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley Reserve 2009 (94pt/$45) puts the time-honored winemaker back on the list after a long absence. Aged for 15 months in mostly new French oak, several periodicals have generated flattering reports of the wine’s texture and flavors. St. Helena’s Spottswoode Winery, long-time producer of fine quality Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc, earned a spot on the list with the #80 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Family Estate 2009 (96pt/$145). I am very familiar with this “liquid velvet” wine that has moved into icon status within the high-end market.

The #63 Neyers Chardonnay Carneros 2010 (93pt/$29), a reliably good wine, was the sole chardonnay from the Napa Valley

Neyers Chardonnay Carneros 2010

and only one of two on the list.

Celebrate the French

Without fail, great wines are produced, vintage-to-vintage, in France. Twenty-two wines on the list were French and, more impressively, three of the top five and six of the top 20. Aside from the aforementioned classic wines from Bordeaux and the Rhone Valley, the list included very reasonably priced wines such as the #39 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris Alsace Les Princes Abbes 2010 (92pt/$20), with forward flavors pleasingly influenced by local volcanic soil.

Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris Alsace Les Princes Abbes 2010

Presence of the Central Coast

With the typical Northern California powerhouse regions in mind, the fact that half of the California wines on the 2012 list originated from vineyards located between northern Santa Barbara County and the Santa Cruz Mountains illustrates a shift that sees new terrior matching the standards of the old. On a more local shift, nearly all of the five Paso Robles releases on the list included syrah, a change from the typical Rhone’s and Zinfandel. The exception #72 Turley Zinfandel Paso Robles Presenti Vineyard 2010 (93pt/$35) marks a successful turn since the Turley Family purchased the old Presenti Family Vineyards years ago.

One of the highest rated wines on the roll is the #21 Saxum James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles 2009 (97/$85), making successive appearances since being named 2010 Wine of the Year. Yielding less than 1,000 cases, this acclaimed wine is rarely available. While wines like the #19 Booker Syrah Paso

Booker Syrah Paso Robles “Fracture” 2010

Robles “Fracture” 2010 (96pt/$70) and the #76 Austin Hope Syrah Paso Robles Hope Family Vineyard 2010 (93pt/$42) have emerged onto the scene, I was delighted to see the #40 Eberle Syrah Paso Robles Steinbeck Vineyard 2010 (93pt/$24), from a well-respected, long-term eastside winemaker, gain recognition. All of his wines are worthy of your palate and the cave tour is excellent.

Good value Pinot Noir, at times an oxymoron, truly personifies three Central Coast wines that represent much of the region. Sourced from vineyards in San Luis Obispo to Gilroy, the grapes that encompass the #28 Calera Pinot Noir Central Coast Thirty-Fifth Anniversary Vintage 2010 (93pt/$24) are fermented and aged separately, then blended to age harmoniously in the bottle for nearly a year.

Located at the intersection of its namesake, the Clark and Telephone (Rd.) Vineyard is a coastal property in north Santa Barbara County, owned by Belle Glos Winery, that produces the sweet spice-driven #77 Belle Glos Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Clark and Telephone Vineyard 2010 (93pt/$44). Located one hour north in Monterey County’s Santa Lucia Highlands, Morgan Winery

Morgan Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Twelve Clones 2010

sourced grapes from notable vineyards, Garys’, Tondre Grapefield and their own Double L for the #83 Morgan Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Twelve Clones 2010 (92pt/$32).

Two classic wines and consistent delegate’s to the list represent the Santa Cruz Mountains region, above Monterey. The #26 Mount Eden Vineyards Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains 2009 (94pt/$55) belongs in any discussion of California’s best and the historic #94 Ridge Monte Bello Santa Cruz Mountains 2009 (95pt/$150) whose early vintage was the top wine of the 2006 Reprise Paris Tasting.

Evolution of the Pacific Northwest

Nine percent of this year’s most exciting wines were produced north of California with Oregon honing their classic red grape and Washington expressing their diversity.

Oregon placed three pinot noir wines on the list, each from a different region and two wines, the #7 Shea Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea Vineyard

Shea Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea Vineyard Estate 2009

Estate 2009 (94pt/$40) and the #14 Maysara Pinot Noir McMinnville Estate Cuvee 2009 (94pt/$32), were included in the top twenty. Both wines are reasonably priced and representative of a tremendous vintage statewide. Argyle, another top pinot noir producer, once again contributed the #18 Argyle Extended Triage Willamette Valley 2002 (96pt/$70), always aged and, arguably, our country’s best sparkling wine.

Argyle Extended Triage Willamette Valley 2002

Washington State contributed four different varietals, a cabernet sauvignon, merlot and rose’ from the Columbia Valley and the acclaimed #22 Cayuse Syrah Walla Walla Valley Cailloux Vineyard 2009 (96pt/$75) from their neighbor to the east.

Amidst these great wines that reflect trends of the 2012 releases is the #51 Bodega Norton Malbec-Mendoza Reserva 2010 (90pt/$18), vintages consistently available at local outlets for under $20. I enjoy this wine occasionally, receiving a bottle as a gift at least once a year. Here’s to a fantastic 2013.

Leave a comment | tags: food, petite sirah, restaurants, wine spectator magazine | posted in Wine

December 10, 2012

In Pairing Wine and Cheese, “Honor the Wine”

By Lyle W. Norton

Traditional party favorites in the States, wine and cheese are daily staples for most Europeans. In most instances, they both begin and lengthen the meal. Through the emerging interest in fine cheeses from American culinary consumers, the need for suitable wine and cheese pairing becomes as natural as the two are companionable.

For centuries wine and cheese have been part of every hearty meal in many parts of the world. Both are examples of “delayed gratification” and good planning to turn cow’s milk into cheese for the winter and grapes into future wine. More than the history, they are similar and often described by their mild or robust flavors, creamy or firm textures or acidity.

Each of us, on average, eats nearly 35 lbs of cheese annually, but, on whole, are becoming more discriminating in our taste. Today, we choose from the milk of cows, goat’s, sheep and in rare instances, Water Buffalo, asking if it is raw or pasteurized and if the end product is soft or hard with a natural or washed rind. There is reason to be so discerning.

As an experiment, next time you have a recipe calling for Parmesan cheese, substitute with fresh pecorino-toscano, an ancient Italian cheese from sheep’s milk, often available in local markets. Developed through a lengthy process and always aged, pecorino-toscano flavors are fresh and simple with a nutty, buttery texture. It will enhance the flavor of food and pair well with a sangiovese such as the local 2009 Leona Valley Winery Sangiovese, one of the best that I have recently enjoyed.

As a starting point to begin to enjoy wine and cheese pairing, the following European cheeses are recommend jas delicious individually and good “vino” partners.

Hard:

Mahon (Sp) cow’s milk Spanish red/syrah

Manchego Sp) sheep’s milk tempranillo

Mimolette (Fr) cow’s milk buttery Chardonnay

Asiago (It) cow’s milk pinot grigio/merlot

Semi-soft:

Raclette (Fr/Swiss) cow’s milk dry riesling

Taleggio (It) cow’s milk spicy white wine

Tomme de Savoie (Fr)cow’s milk dry riesling

Gruyere (Swtz.) cow’s milk buttery Chardonnay

Crème:

Camembert (Fr) cow’s milk buttery chardonnay

Brie (Fr) cow’s milk unoaked white wine

Blue:

Stilton (Eng) cow’s milk port

Valdeon (Sp) cow/goat milk port or sherry

As the wines of southern Europe were role models for our wines, American cheese makers are following established Old World methods, but putting a New world stamp in their process. Reminiscent to the 1976 Paris Tasting, some American cheeses are outscoring their mentors in global competitions. One example is the Rogue River Blue, produced by the Rogue Creamery in Oregon. Designated “World’s Best Blue Cheese” in 2003 at the World Cheese Awards in London with several “Best of Show” from the American Cheese Awards, the Rogue River Blue, wrapped in grape leaves and expressing a brownish hue, lacks the sting and saltiness than some find difficult in blue cheese. Recently near the Rogue River Valley, I acquired and served some Rogue River Blue with honey and marcona almonds and a polished Sauternes from France. You must try it because I could never explain how good it was. The following is a brief list of American boutique cheese that I have recently enjoyed.

Red Hawk (Ca) robust/soft cheese sparkling wine

Rogue River Blue (Ore) mild/creamy blue dessert wine

Plesant Ridge Reserve (Wi) rich and nutty dry riesling

Camellia (Ca) creamy goat cheese chardonnay

Humboldt Fog (Ca) semisoft goat cheese sauvignon blanc

Vermont Shepherd (Ver) hard; sheeps milk viognier

Research can be so arduous, but I made the sacrifice to contact Zina Miakinova, designated Cheese Lady from Le Vigne Winery in Paso Robles to arrange for a wine/cheese pairing. Located in the northeast quadrant on Buena Vista Drive, Le Vigne specializes in semi-rare gourmet cheeses along with fine wines and creative blends. Nothing enhances an experience more than exploring it with an expert.

A “cardinal rule” of pairings is that, in all instances, the cheese augments, but never distracts from the wine. Supporting this end, the process begins with a sniff and taste of wine, then the cheese, finishing with the wine. Although Le Vigne changes its pairings regularly, ours left us understanding that we had discovered something unique. The textures and flavors were perfectly balanced or counter-balanced and made each other better.

Pair #1: Kiara Private Reserve Sauvignon Blanc with

Chaubier (Fr). Chaubier is a semi-firm cheese made from half cow’s milk, half goat’s milk. Its mildly robustflavors and rich texture balanced well with the zesty and citric sauvignon blanc, aged in a variety of oak barrels.

Pair #2: 2008 Kiara Reserve Rose’ with Cranberry Le Roullee (FR). One would expect pairing a sweet cheese with a rose’ to be a bit excessive. However, this rose’ is a very dry, complex wine that consists of a blend of cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, syrah, merlot and cabernet franc, representing the Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhone Valley regions of France. With this rose’, the brain needs a few moments to overcome the anticipation of sweetness and focus on the dry flavors. It needs something sweet and the Cranberry Le Roullee, a sweet, soft cheese infused with dried cranberries made this a decadent pair.

Pair #3: 2007 Le Vigne “Cuore della Vigna” with Casatica di Bufala (It) Comprised mostly of cabernet sauvignon with a blend of petite sirah, cabernet franc and zinfandel grapes, the “Cuore della Vigna” assumes the characteristics of a Super Tuscan, earthy, while creamy and elegant. Originating from the milk of Water Buffalo, apparently contributing the richest, sweetest milk of any dairy animal, this soft, ripened cheese coats the palate, fostering our ability to enjoy the richness of the wine. The obvious question still without an answer, “How does one milk a Water Buffalo?”

Pair #4: 2004 Le Vigne Syrah with Tipperary (Ire)

Seemingly an odd couple, we paired an aged, soft, jammy, fruit-forward wine with a biting, extra sharp Irish cheddar. Both flavors have long finishes and, in some unexplainable way, they counter-balance each other perfectly. The syrah was the best wine that I tasted and the extraordinary pairing experience prompt me to bring some of each home.

Pair #5: 2007 Le Vigne “Ame de la Vigne” with Valdeon (Sp)

Because, common practice is to pair a sharp, pungent blue cheese with a dessert wine such as a French Sauternes, I was anxious to find how the Valdeon, an esteemed Spanish blue wrapped in walnut leaves, would coalesce with this Rhone blend expressing rich fruit and spicy, herb flavors. Of course, the wine tamed the Valdeon and the results were wonderful.

Pair# 6: 2010 Kiara Bella Moscato with Cherry Gourmandise (Fr) Learning as I go, Zina surprised us at the conclusion of the pairing, with a sweet, melon flavored Muscat of Alexandria with the Cherry Gourmandise, a buttery, soft cow’s milk cheese, infused with kirsch, a liqueur distilled from cherries. Apparently, pairings such as this are common, popular because they impart a variety of rich, sweet flavors that are pure decadence.

Le Vigne Winery is a wonderful environment to enjoy cheese and wine tastings and is open to the public. For those inclined, they have a wine/cheese club and also offer a “Decadent Flight” that pairs wine with fine chocolates.

When pairing wine and cheese, do some research on the texture and concentration of flavors of both and avoid letting the intensity of one overpower the other. Counter-balancing acidity and sweetness, such as a powerful blue cheese with a sweet dessert wine, is also important.

When serving cheese as a pre-dinner appetizer, think diversity of shape as well as texture and flavor, something easily done with cheeses from a specific country or region such as Sonoma County in northern California. Whatever you decide, always remember the essential rule to honor the wine.

Wine and J.S. Bach

By Lyle W. Norton

It was billed as Bach & Bachanal: A Music and Wine Pairing Recital featuring nine pieces by composer Johann Sebastian Bach paired with seven European wines ranging from a sparkling Brut Riesling to an unusual Italian blend featuring two disparate grapes.

Peter Nelson, co-owner of Monopole Wine in Pasadena invested significant time researching the nuances of the music and thoughtfully used his skills as a master sommelier to pair it with fine European wines. For example Bach’s Allemande E flat Major (Suite IV) is described as “a dance, both serious and amusing”. In a 1739 review, Johann Mattheson called it “a serious and well-composed harmoniousness in arpeggiated style, expressing satisfaction and amusement, and delighting in order and calm”.

Defining it “an exceptional wine, serious, yet playful”, Peter selected the 2009 Von Buhl Sekt Brut Riesling, a German sparkler from Pfalz that immediately draws attention to its acidity and bubbles so as to lead you through balanced, citrus flavors, the calm in the music. And so the evening began.

If one devotes an evening to attend a wine and Bach pairing recital, it’s best to be as trusting as possible. A totally open mind, an amenable palate and good listening skills can facilitate immersion into the moment and help to feel the beauty of the music with the texture of the taste.

None of this can occur unless the quality of the music can stand up to the wine. Fortunately, we were privileged to have cellist Jevgenji Raskatov and violinist Amaruka Hazari to aptly manage the melody while enjoying each wine with us. I overheard someone say that Jevgenji was a biochemist in his day job, which I assumed was music. Great minds and talent seem to abound in the Pasadena area surrounding Cal Tech.

Referencing Peter’s extensive research and knowledge, let me share my perceptions of the wines that were selected to enhance the unaccompanied cello and violin suites of Johann Sebastian Bach.

Music: Allemande E flat Major (Suite Iv)

Wine: 2009 Von Buhl Sekt Brut Riesling, Pfalz, Germany

As previously described, this wine is a highly acidic sekt, the traditional sparkling wine of Germany, Bach’s homeland. The refreshing crispness does not overwhelm as pleasant flavors of citrus fruit pass through the finish. This sparkler would also pair well with cheeses like Mahon (cow’s milk) or Humboldt Fog (goat’s milk), as both can be “serious, yet playful”.

Music: Prelude D minor (Suite II)

Wine: 2009 Markowitsch Blaufrankisch Spitzerber, Austria

This piece seems to have been inspired by the joy of a walk on a crisp autumn day, an ambience of soft rain falling that our cellist superbly captured. Quite possibly because it’s October and I took a late afternoon walk, I could feel the described “autumn earthiness” of the 2009 Markowitsch Blaufrankisch Spitzerber from Austria.

Apparently blaufrankisch is the country’s most dignified grape known for concentrated fruit flavors and an earthiness or “Teutonic” character. The wonderful aromas alone, balanced while casting a candied fruit bouquet, would have been a sufficient pair with this music. Priced below $20, I was also inspired to bring a bottle home.

Music: Sarabande G major (Suite II)

Wine: 2005 Chateau Canon, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France

The piece is a slow, purposeful dance that, although exquisite and full, is sad. In Peter’s mind, it needs a nice red Bordeaux, “dark, earthy and just a little brooding, but very satisfying”. While it has some age, the 2005 Chateau Canon, Fronsac is not over-powering, but has some depth and smokiness to its flavors. There is a strong recommendation that this wine be consumed with this music by candlelight or an appropriate mood lighting app.

Music: Allemande, Partita No. 2 BMW 1004

Wine: 2010 Schonborn Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Germany

The description of a Riesling Spatlese Trocken tells us that the grapes were harvested at their ripest form, just short of late harvest or “noble rot”, botryris. However, they are not sweet, maintaining full pure fruit flavors and a perfect minerality. It was noted that Schonborn has been producing wine since the 13^th century and that Bach could easily have been enjoying a glass while composing this piece. Peter’s aim was to pair “purity with purity” and the results were ideal. When people speak of great German Riesling, this wine is what they are referring to.

Music: Adagio, Sonata No 1, BWV 1001

Sarabande in C Major (Suite III)

Wine: Bert Simon Muller-Thurgau Beerenauslese. Germany

As we spoke earlier of the Spatlese Trocken, harvested at their fully ripened form, the Bert Simon-Muller-Thurgau Beerenaulese takes them beyond ripe, with a “botrytis” affected very late harvest. The result was aptly designated “nectar of the gods” and “made from the tears of angels”. Rich, opulent, full-bodied, full-flavored, Peter sees the internalization of this wine and music leading to purification of the soul. I see this wine having the same effect with Mozart, Sinatra or even Coldplay. As Peter defined the sonata as “utterly cathartic”, I was convinced that he found the proper therapeutic wine.

Music: Bouree in C Major (Suite III)

Minuet in G Major, 1 and 2 (Suite I)

Wine: 2010 Bouchard Auxey-Durresses, Burgundy, France

These pieces, both of French origin, are defined as lively dances with some seriousness. Selecting a traditional French wine for a French dance, the Bouchard Auxey-Durresses is a nice red Burgundy from the pinot noir grape.

The Burgundy region produces elegant wines with bold red cherry flavors and a soft minerality. According to Peter, “the wine is clearly mimicking the dual character of the minuet”. To me, both were uplifting.

Music: Prelude in G Major (Suite I)

Wine: 2006 Zenato Cormi, Veneto, Italy

The final piece, one of Bach’s most famous, features a series of motifs that “start with a quicker tempo and continues with great energy and melody and builds to an urgent climax before finishing in perfect balance”.

To this end, Peter has chosen a bold Italian blend from the Veneto region, not only because it completes a normal progression of our tasting, but because it combines merlot and corvina, grapes from French and Italian origins, expressing the influence of Italian soil. The results were highly intense fruit with a rich, creamy finish.

Aside from being Jevenij’s favorite wine, Zenato Cormi is also known to pair well with our final surprise: fresh creative chocolates from Pasadena-based “Mama’s Gone Cacao”.

Raskatov and Amaruka continued to play a few encore pieces that, along with the chocolate and wine, was a superb finale to a captivating evening. The concept of pairing good wine and classical music is intriguing and, under the tutelage of a master sommelier, one can begin to feel the connections. At a minimum, it is an opportunity to enjoy good music, fine wine and pleasant company.

Monopole Wine, located in Pasadena’s theater district, presents special tastings and classes on a regular basis that are describeded on their website.

1 Comment | posted in music, Wine

October 15, 2012

The Wines of Newburg

By Lyle W. Norton

Photographed by Karen Norton

The quaint city of Newburg, Ore. is located in Yamhill County at the northern tip of the Willamette Valley wine region, 50 miles southwest of Portland. The small town of 22,000 residents, the second largest in the county, is also home to the Chehalem Mountains and Ribbon Ridge appellations, producing high quality pinot noir, some syrah and an array of white varietals. I have read about them, but they are miles away with much great wine in-between. A recent jaunt through

vista from Penner-Ash Winery

Newburg presented us with an opening to enjoy a beautiful afternoon and tdaste some wines from Chehalem, Bergstrom and Penner-Ash, familiar only by reputation and to, inadvertently, discover the best BLT of my life.

Oregon is primarily known for high quality pinot noir and pinot gris, and I am always astounded by the depth palate of wines produced there. A prime example is Chehalem, showcasing 10 new releases from five varietals at their downtown tasting room. Our first tasting is from an uncommon varietal, though it’s the most widely planted in Austria, named Gruner Veltliner. Covering more than 50,000 acres of vineyards, Gruner Veltliner has transformed itself from Austria’s commercial grape to a low-yield powerhouse over the past 25-30 years. Winemakers discovered, decades ago, with low-yield methods and mature fruit, the potential of this varietal to produce highly concentrated wines with deep aromas and flavors.

Differing from Austria, there are only four growers in the valley and Chehalem has one acre at their Ridgecrest Vineyard, producing 85 cases. Boasting low-yields, late season sunshine and less rain, the 2011 Chehalem “Ridgecrest Vineyard” Gruner Veltliner ($24)had white pepper and grassy hints on the nose, some acidity and nice flavors that became more intense at the finish. Daniel, are tasting host, described the wine as a combination of pinot gris, sauvignon blanc and riesling, covering all bases. We enjoyed it and could comprehend its reputation as a good

2011 Chehalem Gruner Vetliner Ridgecrest Vineyard

food wine.

While in Oregon, I always sample the pinot gris, arguably the best in the world. The 2011 Chehalem “3 Vineyards” Pinot Gris ($19) is very nice if you like soft floral aromas, flavors of ripening fruit and unusually long finishes that seem to go on forever. A nice finish was also present with the 2010 Chehalem “Reserve” Dry Riesling ($24), a bone-dry wine that, in my view, expressed extraordinary complexity. The final and, certainly, their flagship white wine was the 2009 Chehalem Ian’s Reserve Chardonnay ($36) from Stollar Vineyard, awarded 91 pts. from Wine Spectator magazine. This vintage, which the winery says may be its best, delivers “comfort” spices and orchard fruit in both the bouquet and flavor, expressing a rich “baked” texture throughout. Aged seven months in 35% new oak barrels, this wine has the depth to last awhile.

2009 Chehalem Ian’s delivers “comfort” spices and orchard fruit in both the bouquet and flavor, expressing a rich, “baked” texture throughout. Aged seven months in 35% new oak barrels, this wine has the depth to last awhile.

Chehalem is best known for fine, north Willamette Valley pinot noir and were pouring five new releases, some with consistent ratings in the 90’s. They all had something nice to offer: the “Corral Creek Vineyard” expressed spice and nice traditional flavors, the “Stollar Vineyard” an earthiness and a nice, spicy nose identified the fairly new “Wind Ridge Vineyard”. However, the 2009 Chehalem “Ridgecrest Vineyard” Pinot Noir ($48), celebrating the 25^thharvest from the Ribbon Ridge appellation vineyard, without doubt, conveyed the most complexity and required the most focus. It expressed nice spice and fruit-forward flavors with

Chehalem Ridgecrest Vineyard Pinot Noir

hints of wild blackberries that grow nearby.

From time to time, Bergstrom Wines are featured in periodical reviews of Oregon pinot noir wines. Started by Dr. John and Karen Bergstrom as a family business, operations are now run by son Josh and his wife Caroline. Above picturesque vineyards, the relaxed outdoor porch provides to environment to appreciate the quality of their wines, from whole-cluster rose’ to the single-vineyard pinot noir, all exceeding my expectations.

With a view of the barn and de Lanceotti Vineyard, we began with a 2011 Bergstrom Rose’ Pinot Noir, a well perfumed wine with hints of peaches and strawberries, nice as an apéritif, but with the structure to pair with food. In 2009, the San Francisco Chronicle named the 2008 Bergstrom “Old Stones” Chardonnay among their Top 100 wines. A crisp Burgundian-style with healthy mineral notes, the 2010 Bergstrom “Old Stones” Chardonnay ($30) maintained nice flavors of white peach and pear, a perfect match for lobster, crab or BBQ oysters. It also has the structure to age a few years.

Quite simply stated, the Bergstrom Wines single-vineyard pinot noir releases were stunning, possibly the best of all our tastings. Among the standouts, the 2010

Bergstrom barn and De Lancellotti Vineyard

Bergstrom “Cumberland Reserve” Pinot Noir ($42), from multiple vineyards, is a deep ruby color with complex flavors of dark chocolate, black cherry and dark raspberry. Awarded 92 pts. from Robert Parker, it has the tannins to expand its depth over time. Earning ratings of 92-93 pts from Wine Spectator and Robert Parker, the 2010 Bergstrom “de Lancellotti Vineyard” Pinot Noir ($65),my personal favorite, epitomizes full-bodied high-end pinot noir with smokey, floral and perfume traces on the nose and deeply concentrated “cherry pie” textures throughout the finish.

Bergstrom “De Lancelotti Vineyard” Pinot Noir 2010

Just when we thought things could not get better, we were pleasantly surprised with two special tastings, not on the menu. The 2010 Bergstrom “Bergstrom Vineyard” Pinot Noir ($80) has all the qualities of a classic pinot, but on steroids. Rich and opulent aromas and flavors merited ratings of 93-95 pts from the experts. Finally, we felt honored when offered a taste of the equally opulent 2010 Bergstrom “Winery Block” Pinot Noir ($150) from a small 1.5 ac vineyard of special low-yield vines, attracting a limited market of collector’s. It captured intensity and boldly concentrated fruit. Bergstrom is a special experience and a highly recommended stop in the northern Willamette Valley.

With 10 years experience as winemaker and President at Rex Hill Winery, Linda Penner Ash, along with husband Ron began Penner-Ash in 1998 with the spirit to continue the tradition of small production pinot noir in the north Willamette region. Their property is as picturesque as any in the area with a sustainable three-level gravity winery and tasting room that is architectural impressive and unique.

Our first tasting, the 2010 Penner-Ash Viognier ($30), sourced from vineyards in southern Oregon comes from 100% stainless steel fermentation but still has a rich velvety feel and soft peach flavors. The pinot noir grape adds a unique flavor profile to a rose’ and the 2011 Penner-Ash “Roseo” ($19) is no exception. Nice spice and dark fruit flavors with tart cranberry throughout the finish.

We tasted two contrasting pinot noir wines, one comprised of grapes from 18 vineyards in six AVA’s with production of 5,700 cases and the other yielding 575 cases from a single-vineyard. The 2010 Penner-Ash Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($45), with its diversity, still delivers classic pinot noir elegance with typical spices and cherries extending through an earthy finish. That same complexity delivered delivered within a soft, velvety texture describes the 2010 Penner-Ash “Dussin Estate Vineyard” Pinot Noir ($60). Pinots this heavy-on-the-tongue often hints of chocolate, as is the case here. The Dussin and other Penner-Ash vineyards are certified to preserve resources in the wine industry and designated “salmon-safe”, using farming practices that protect local watershed areas.

Penner-Ash Winery

I enjoy the deep, jammy flavors that California syrah can attain, but try to avoid those with un-balanced tannins that can be overly tart on the finish. For this

Penner-Ash Syrah

reason, I was attracted to the 2009 Penner-Ash Oregon Syrah ($32), complex flavors with soft vanilla spice, aged 17 months in 40% new French oak, plus 2% viognier and a nice finish with the tannins in balance.

There was a mid-day stop at Recipe, a restaurant gaining praise throughout the region for its fresh, seasonally adapted menu. I opted for the daily special “Heirloom Tomato BLT” sandwich that, although it had the same ingredients as all the others, was prepared with fresh heirloom tomatoes, some added avocado, on freshly baked bread with a light, creamy sauce. This is a sandwich to remember.

This work is exhausting

Newburg is a happening place. The weather, at least the last two weeks of August, is great, the landscape is stunning with conscientious vineyards and endless vistas, resulting in wines that deserve to be as good as they are.

The Mystery of Sauvignon Blanc

By Lyle W. Norton

Forever in the shadow of the perennial homecoming queen, Chardonnay, the varietal that some people call sauvignon blanc has struggled with identity issues even after Robert Mondavi changed its name to Fume’Blanc decades ago, intending to boost its image and its sales. Adding to its mysterious persona, consumers are never certain what sauvignon blanc will show up. As with many varietals, it is heavily influenced by the soils within the region it is grown and how it is made.

Originating from Bordeaux in France, Sauvignon Blanc also thrives in Australia, South America, New Zealand and South Africa, each with diverse soil. The famous wines from the Pouilly Fume’ and Sancerre appellations in the Loire Valley, southwest of Paris and the Sauternes region of Bordeaux use the sauvignon blanc grape exclusively. Regionally, it excels in western Australia, the Marlborough appellation of New Zealand and in California, primarily Sonoma County, Napa Valley and the Santa Ynez Valley, north of Santa Barbara.

The two personas of sauvignon blanc are nearly polar opposites of each other. There is the grassy, “herbaceous”, more intense version opposed to the rich, barrel-fermented rendition full of creamy melon and tropical fruits. Both enjoy the passion of many wine consumers. Producers in many of the global appellations have found that blending sauvignon blanc with the heavily textured semillon grape creates a more full-bodied, rich wine. An excellent example of this blend is the St. Supery Estate “Virtu” Napa Valley ($30) featuring half from each varietal. With two-thirds of the grapes fermented in French oak, the remainder in stainless steel, “Virtu” combines crisp aromas and flavors of lemon zest and grapefruit with the creamy, toasted influences. The 2010 vintage is sold out at the winery, but most likely can be found in some outlets or on the Internet.

The one irrefutable capacity of sauvignon blanc is that it has always been one of the most food-friendly wines available. More specifically,

St. Supery “Virtu” Sauvignon Blanc-Semillion blend

sauvignon/fume’ blanc, unlike chardonnay, can easily stand up to spicy and more flavorful savory foods. Powerful flavors like cilantro, dill, garlic, lemon, lime, red bell peppers and others are often suitably paired with the versatile grape.

Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc “Goosebury”

Sauvignon/Fume’ Blanc is also very characteristic to its region. Soils, the use (and non-use) of oak and aging produces very different traits within the French regions, both differing from California and New Zealand. If you are serious about this varietal, I highly recommend the self-proclaimed, “Fiddlehead Experiment.” Kathy Joseph, owner/winemaker of Fiddlehead Cellars in Santa Barbara County can thank me later for the plug, but this is actually the means by which I began to explore the potential of sauvignon blanc.

Fiddlehead Cellars has been striving to produce excellent Pinot Noir and expand the capabilities of sauvignon blanc for over a decade. They produce three very different releases of the latter, describing them as indicative of those from the Loire Valley, Bordeaux and New Zealand, all from vineyards in eastern Santa Ynez Valley.

The Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara AVA, known for warm days and cool nights, has become the home of great sauvignon blanc vineyards, including the “Vogelzang Vineyard” that supply grapes for several labels, including the Fiddlehead Cellars trio. The Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc “Happy Canyon” ($25), named for the appellation, is a full-bodied, rich wine with nice, crisp tropical fruit aroma and flavors, indicative of those produced in the Loire Valley. The use of stainless steel, new and neutral French oak creates a wonderful balance of crispness with silky texture.

In Bordeaux-style, the Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc “Hunnysuckle” ($34)is that richly textured wine that one can enjoy with or without food. Aged for ten months in the barrel before additional years in the bottle, patience is rewarded with elegance and grace.

Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc “Hunnysuckle”

One of my best food pairing experiences ever involved sea scallops in a creamy Meyer lemon sauce with a glass of Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc “Goosebury” ($34), representative of those produced in New Zealand. With no oak or any other influences, the “Goosebury” is crisp, herbal with mineral hints and, in my view, one of two California sauvignon blanc that I would select when choosing a wine to pair with a special meal. The “Fiddlehead Experiment” allows one to explore the world of this agile grape and solve many of its mysteries.

Aside from the “Goosebury”, my favorite food wine is the renowned Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley ($32), arguably the finest produced in California. I often reference this wine as it annually receives accolades, appearing on Top 100 lists from many periodicals. Indicative of low-yield wines, this sauvignon blanc is fruit-forward in brilliantly balanced richness

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley

with aromas of apples, layered flavors of stone and tropical fruits and a nice acidity on the finish.

The following are my additional recommended sauvignon blanc varietal wines, varying in price range, most available locally, all of high quality from various regions of the world.

Lincourt Sauvignon Blanc Santa Ynez Valley ($18): Lincourt is a small boutique winery near the small village of Los Olivos, outside of Solvang. Non-herbal, there are nice hints of tropical fruit and melon throughout. This wine is often reviewed as an excellent value wine, but may be difficult to find outside of the winery.

Lincourt Sauvignon Blanc Santa Ynez Valley

Ferrari-Carano Fume’Blanc ($13): A popular release from Sonoma County for decades, a nice balance of citrus and tropical fruit, balanced and multi-layered.

Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough NZ ($15): Very accessible, processing the typical minerality from New Zealand and nice citrus flavors.

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough NZ ($15): Another popular wine from New Zealand, the KC expresses intense bouquet with tropical fruit, melon flavors and nice acidity on the finish.

Babcock Sauvignon Blanc ($20): From the Santa Rita Hills AVA in Santa Barbara County and a reliable winemaker, this wine is rich with oak

Babcock Sauvignon Blanc

influences and soft melon flavors. A good value for a wine that is not always available locally.

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc ($27)One of the most highly rated Sauvignon Blanc in the world for the past few years, it was rewarded 92 pts. from Wine Spectator, ranked only below Merry Edwards among the varietal. Very crisp and fruit forward, the flavors are balanced and abundant.

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough NZ

Hopefully, we have unveiled some of the mysteries and myths about sauvignon blanc. For many, it is a softer, mellower alternative to chardonnay, for others a great food friendly wine. However, as with all the world’s finest varietals, further exploration of sauvignon blanc reveals the rich diversity and distinctive characteristics of a global powerhouse.

lifebylyle

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